
A century-old family-owned and operated producer in the middle of Épernay, recently reinvigorated by the arrival of the fourth generation
50% Chardonnay; 50% Pinot Noir
Brut Nature
Four+ years
$$ (V)
Up to five years
Culinary
Photos
A nearly century old family-owned and operated house, now headed by 4th generation Thomas Lombard, who took over from his father in 2020 after joining in 2017.
Épernay; 6ha of estate vineyards, mainly Premier Cru in the western Montagne de Reims, certified organic since 2022; grower relationships in Premier and Grand Cru sites in the Côte des Blancs (Chouilly, Oiry, Cramant, Avize, Oger, le Mesnil-sur-Oger), the Montagne de Reims (Bouzy, Ambonnay, Louvois, Mailly-Champagne, Verzy, Verzenay, Beaumont-sur-Vesle, Sillery, Puisieulx, Ville-Dommange) and the Vallée de la Marne (Tours-sur-Marne).
This long-aged NV, spending four and a half years with the lees, walks a fine line between edgy/natural style and classic house champagne. On the one hand, the lack of dosage (and filtration), but on the other the stainless steel fermentation with maturation for 6-8 months in Seguin Moreau tonneaux (though used and light toasted). For added freshness, about 80% of the blend does not undergo MLF, and only 10% reserves are used.
The fruit is all from top Grands Crus: the Chardonnay comes from Chouilly, Cramant, Avize and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger; Pinot from Ambonnay and Verzenay.
This starts a little eccentric, with a sour toastiness, and gradually shows some finger lime and oyster shell, while staying quite restrained overall. The mousse is gentle, while the shape is very compact and dense. Flavours are intense if relatively straightforward, with a strong tart citrus character, delicately waxy texture and very forceful acidity. There is a marked grapefruit bitterness to finish with hints of gentian and quinine.
Vegetable dishes with a dose of bitterness, like bitter greens
Entrées
Your coworker
Dense and waxy with a citric, bitter-tartness
L'Imperatrice
