Le Brun De Neuville Autolyse Noirs & Blancs

Tatler Champagne Guide 2024-2025

Grape Makeup:

86% Pinot Noir; 14% Chardonnay

Sweetness Level:

Brut

Ageing on Lees:

~14 years

Price:

$ (V)

Cellar:

Up to five years

Category:

Culinary

What

The largest cooperative cellar in the Côte de Sézanne, an area known for Chardonnay and undergoing a renaissance since being replanted in the 1960s and ‘70s.

Where

Bethon, Côte de Sézanne; ~150ha total, though only 1/3 are used for their wine production; 90% Chardonnay, remainder Pinot Noir.

Why

Though this area is known for the quality of its Chardonnay, the Autolyse is instead mainly made from old-vine (45-year-old) Pinot Noir, giving a rare opportunity to experience the red grape on these heavily chalky clay soils. The 2008 base wine (with 12% reserves) has undergone 14 years’ maturation on the lees, a mind-bendingly long ageing period for a wine at this price point. The wine is very close to being too much, but it will have great appeal for lovers of mature vintage champagne.

What Else

Rather incredibly for a cooperative producer, their vintage wines are also very late-released; the current vintage is 2012 (Dom Pérignon is currently on 2015), a spectacular vintage for a rich, rounded Chardonnay.

Tasting Notes

This is right on the point of too much, nutty and packed with toast, marron glacé and even fire-roasted corn, with sparse fresh fruit left. The palate is rich and nutty, with a sauvage, leathery heat that makes for a savoury, drawn-out finish.

Try It With

Tangy Cantonese appetisers spiked with vinegar to jolt the pairing to life

When To Drink

Entrées

Perfect For

Your uncle, who only drinks 20+ year old champagne

Tatler Tip

This is probably reaching the end of its lifespan, don't wait too long to enjoy.

TL/DR

Nutty, plump and meaty

Supplier

Watsons