
Terroir-focused producers flying the flag for Tours-sur-Marne Grand Cru
60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay
Extra Brut
24 months
$$
5-10 years
Culinary
Photos
An estate founded in the 1950s and run by Ophélie Lamiable since 2006; terroir-focused, especially on the wines of their Grand Cru village Tours-sur-Marne, where the family has been since at least the mid-17th century.
Tours-sur-Marne, Montagne de Reims; about 6 hectares, mainly in Tours but also neighbouring Bouzy.
This NV cuvée uses exclusively Grand Cru fruit (from Tours and Bouzy); the base is the glorious 2018 vintage but there are also 40% reserves from a solera-style perpetual reserve, adding a great deal of depth and enticing aromas of baked goods.
The single vineyards here, a pure pinot called Les Meslaines and a chardonnay, Phéérie (yes, that is spelled correctly!) are wonderful expressions of these two grapes – the former more upright and elegant than is typical for pinot and the latter quite bold and generous for chardonnay.
Very nutty but also fairly rich-fruited, with satsuma fruit beneath ginger snaps, brown butter and milk toffee, this smells like it will be sweet to taste. The mousse remains impressively intense even though it was the last in the flight, but acidity is quite pronounced to make up for the richness. Flavours are just as potent as the aromatics, with the sweet ginger snap and nougat qualities emphasised, though the palate is in fact very dry numerically. There is lovely balance of firm structure with long, resonant spicy pastry notes that are accompanied by a lightly chewy texture. Very appealing.
Rich, meaty stews or dishes with nutty elements, like kare-kare.
After dinner.
The friend who thinks the best thing about France is its fruit tarts.
Nutty, rich fruited and chewy.
Golden Gate Wines
