Laherte Freres Ultradition Extra Brut

Tatler Champagne Guide 2024-2025

Grape Makeup:

60% Meunier; 30% Chardonnay; 10% Pinot Noir

Sweetness Level:

Extra Brut

Ageing on Lees:

24+ months

Price:

$

Cellar:

Up to five years

Category:

Culinary

What

The most prominent grower in Chavot in the Coteaux Sud d’Épernay, on the border between the Côte des Blancs and Vallée de la Marne, founded in 1889 and a small House since 2011.

Where

Chavot-Courcourt, Coteaux Sud d'Épernay; 11ha spread over Coteaux Sud d'Épernay, Côte des Blancs and Vallée de la Marne, since 2011 also purchasing fruit from 4ha in Montagne de Reims, Côte des Blancs and Vallée de la Marne; almost all Chardonnay and Meunier.

Why

This unique borderline terroir brings together Meunier that is grown on more lime-rich sites than is typical, giving it extra finesse, with Chardonnay grown on more clay-rich sites than normal, giving added mid-palate weight. Despite being a comparative steal, it uses an unusually high level of reserves (40%) and is sensitively vinified in wooden foudres, cuves and 228-litre barrels, giving it a luxurious barrel-fermented sheen.

What Else

Their whole range of “Special & Original” cuvées is lightly dosed, to allow them maximum site expression, and has some of the more delightfully illustrated labels I have seen in a while, somewhere between Chagall paintings and Matisse cut-outs.

Tasting Notes

The nose opens with brassy, oxidative hints of ginger with overtones of almond, iodine and baked apple. The mousse is gentle, revealing a good balance of fruit ripeness with acidity for a harmonious, gentle effect. There is a pleasing toastiness on the back palate, like shortbread, ginger biscuits and honey.

Try It With

Classic tapas, especially if manchego is involved

When To Drink

Entrées

Perfect For

A Zoomer friend you are trying to impress

TL/DR

Nutty but harmonious with a lush toasty finish

Supplier

Altaya