José Michel & Fils Pinot Meunier Blanc de Noirs Brut NV

What

A meunier-specialist grower who has been making wine since 1955.

Where

Moussy, Coteaux Sud d’Épernay; 10 ha, spread across different villages in the Coteaux as well as the Vallée de la Marne.

Why

Although meunier champagnes are very trendy now, the late José Michel was growing meunier vines on chalky soils in the ‘50s. He abandoned pure meunier wines in the ‘70s—he was the first in his family to plant chardonnay—but today the estate’s meunier Blanc de Noirs is a great illustration of the nervous energy and generosity the grape can display at its best.

What else

Their Spécial Club is bottled elegance (see article on Grower Champagnes for review of 2013).

Tasting Notes

A nervous nose with a flinty edge, white pepper, sage and bitter lemon. Grainy phenolics on the attack yield the acidity that fills in after the mid-palate. Fruit is figgy and dense with a greenish herbal edge like chewing on currant seeds. A fine bitterness cleanses the finish.

Try It With 

Dishes with strong bitter, herbal or medicinal flavours e.g. ginseng or galangal.

When To Drink

Entrées or Snacks

Perfect For

Your sake-loving friend.

Tatler Tip

Serve this one cool; it becomes flabby and loose when too warm.

TL/DR

Nervous, herbal and layered.

Supplier

Golden Gate Wines