Henriot Cuvée Hemera 2008
A small, prestigious house founded in 1808 known for long lees ageing
Grape Makeup:
50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir
Sweetness Level:
Extra Brut
Ageing on Lees:
12+ years
Price:
$$$ (V)
Cellar:
10+ years
Category:
Collectible
Photos
What
A small prestigious house, founded in 1808 by Apolline Henriot and recently acquired by Terroirs et Vignerons de Champagne, a mega-union of cooperatives representing ~6,000 growers. It is known for ageing its stainless steel fermented wines for a long time on lees.
Where
Reims; more 30 hectares of estate vineyards, mainly in the Côte des Blancs. However, the new ownership will likely provide access to many new sites.
Why
The vibrant Hemera brings together six Grand Cru terroirs: Verzy, Verzenay and Mailly-Champagne in the Montagne de Reims (original holdings of Apolline Henriot) and Avize, Chouilly and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger in the Côte des Blancs (brought by Marie Marguet when she married into the family). Hemera replaced the former prestige cuvée Les Echanteleurs, which was much more oxidative in style (Hemera is the name of a goddess who is the personification of day). 2008 is the perfect vintage to showcase this brightness, with its classical structure and aromatic lift.
What Else
Chef de cave Alice Tetienne, previously at Krug, is shepherding along the award-winning Alliances de Terroirs project at the house, founded in 2020, to better understand the terroirs of the estate and adapt viticultural and enological practices to improve sustainability
Tasting Notes
Quite smoky on the nose, with paraffin and hickory over calamansi fruit that edges towards yellow apple, the Hemera remains commandingly refined even if somewhat forward, with a rich ginger biscuit toastiness. This continues on the palate, with a hint of cola nut, but really powerful acidity that keeps everything elevated across the medium weight frame. If anything, the richness seems to melt away as acidity crescendos to the finish and the structure becomes exposed and quite chewy. A little bit more tense and extreme than the 2006 reviewed in the last guide, but very harmonious also, reflecting the gorgeous vintage.
Try It With
Smoky dishes that are looking for their complement, like tea-smoked duck.
When To Drink
Entrées.
Perfect For
The friend who studied the classics and loves classic collectible wines.
Tatler Tip
The house was recently sold to Terroirs et Vignerons de Champagne, a union of cooperatives (that also owns Nicolas Feuillatte) that represents approximately 3,000 hectares in champagne; many in the industry expect to see many more terroir-focused cuvées from Henriot going forward.
TL/DR
Smoky, refined and assertive.
Supplier
Kerry Wines
