Henriot Brut Souverain

Tatler Champagne Guide 2024-2025

Grape Makeup:

45% Pinot Noir; 40% Chardonnay; 15% Meunier

Sweetness Level:

Brut (actually Extra Brut)

Ageing on Lees:

36+ months

Price:

$ (V)

Cellar:

Five to ten years

Category:

Celebration

What

A small prestigious house, founded in 1808 by Apolline Henriot and now helmed by Chef de Cave Alice Tétienne.

Where

Reims; 30+ha of estate vineyards, mainly in the Côte des Blancs; sourced grapes come mainly from Premier and Grand Cru vineyards.

Why

Brut Souverain is a triumph of steel-fermented, site-driven purity, with each small plot individually vinified in appropriately sized stainless steel fermenters, leading to a lightly smoky, reductive style. The same precision is increasingly being applied to their viticulture through the Alliances Terroirs project, which Tétienne initiated in 2020 when she joined. This is aimed at adjusting practices for each site, both for quality and ecological reasons. Reserves are drawn in part from the storied Cuve 38, a solera of Grand Cru Chardonnay, creating a link to the original Brut Souverain made by Apolline Henriot.

What Else

Tétienne is one of the youngest Chefs de Cave in Champagne, having ascended to the role at only 30 in 2020. Despite this, she had already worked for five years at Krug, managing vineyard relations and before that, worked at Nicolas Feuillatte, which is now part of the same group since its parent company, Terroirs et Vignerons de Champagne, acquired Henriot in 2023.

Tasting Notes

This is rich, with cedar notes, like blonde tobacco, new leather and wood panelling over dried citrus fruit and citrus leaves. The palate continues toasty and rich but sensuous instead of gourmand: more cologne than dessert. The fruit grows somewhat richer on the back palate, but it is offset by bright acidity and a delicate bitterness to finish. There is a golden quality suffused through this, but it feels more cedary than necessarily toasty.

Try It With

A festive Korean meal with lots of jeon (pancakes)

When To Drink

Entrées or main course

Perfect For

A special family occasion

Tatler Tip

This is one of my best-kept secrets; still so affordable but super sophisticated and ages impressively.

TL/DR

Cedary, perfumed and poised

Supplier

Kerry Wines