
An ancient vinegrowing family in Aÿ and now a small house known for its sumptuous MV cuvée
80% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay
Brut
3+ years
$$$
5-10 years
Collectible
Photos
An ancient vinegrowing family in Aÿ – current proprietor Claude Giraud is the 12th generation – that produces plush, generous pinot-dominant champagnes at their boutique house, producing a mere 250,000 bottles a year and known for the prestige cuvée MV
Aÿ, Vallée de la Marne; 10 hectares estate vineyards, primarily pinot noir on chalk soils, with access to another 15 hectares; MV comes exclusively from Aÿ.
The luscious, oak-laden cuvée formerly called Fût de Chêne is now merely marked “MV,” but retains its style. Fermentation and ageing take place in terracotta and concrete eggs or small casks made from Argonne forest oak (stainless steel has been banished from the winery since 2016). Every tree felled for a barrel is replaced by a newly planted sapling at Giraud’s behest. A third of the blend comes from a perpetual reserve dated to 1990 and the 2018 MV also takes advantage of the vintage’s incredible ripeness and density.
The ultra-luxe, ultra-boutique Manoir Henri Giraud is the new project of Claude Giraud, who recently retired as winemaker. It offers 5 unique bedrooms and a cleverly-named treatment “Craÿothérapie,” which uses the local chalk for mud wraps, as well as forest bathing in the Argonne forest where the house’s oak barrels are sourced.
Very nutty and gourmand with cinnamon buns, cannelé, cola and fresh ginger, the palate picks up where the nose stopped, with continued plushness but with a very fine acidity that amplifies as it reaches the midpalate. Tannins are quite textural and firm, further helping create a structure to contain all the boldness of the aromas. Fruit is dried orange in tone, satisfyingly bitter and edging on salty. It is fairly nutty to finish, but appealingly so.
Rich meaty dishes that meld well with sweet caramelised sauces.
After dinner.
The friend who thinks Krug has gotten too skinny.
The staple closure on the cork looks quite intimidating but each bottle actually comes with a designated tool, dégrafeur, for opening the bottle. If you happen to lose it, you can use the handle of any thin, flat utensil (most forks work well).
Gourmand, rich and luxuriant.
Telford International Company Limited
