Francoise Martinot Bistrotage B17

Tatler Champagne Guide 2024-2025

Grape Makeup:

100% Pinot Noir

Sweetness Level:

Extra Brut

Ageing on Lees:

Four years

Price:

$

Cellar:

Up to five years

Category:

Culinary

What

The side project of cult Champagne vigneron Charles Dufour, made from family plots in Celles-sur-Ources that are owned and harvested by his mother and then made in his winery in neighbouring Landreville, also farmed biodynamically and certified organic.

Where

Celles-sur-Ources, Côte des Bar; certified organic and biodynamically farmed.

Why

Dufour’s wines from his principal range have become almost impossible to source, but the Martinot range is still somewhat more widely available, sharing a similar savoury, esoteric naturalness with a gourmand underpinning. Some of the richness comes from the maturation of half the blend in oak before the second fermentation (the other half is in steel), spending 12 months on fine lees before bottling.

What Else

The hard to source rosé and rouge Coteaux Champenois made from Pinot Noir and Meunier or just Meunier respectively are now available in Asia as well.

Tasting Notes

This is equal parts indulgent and sauvage, beginning with toasted almond, sage and pound cake, developing light notes of marmalade and bruised apple and then a ripe, meaty musk. The palate is broad and mouth-filling, with muscular Pinot density. The fruit starts yellow but grows darker hued, like mirabelle plum shading into quetsch, dense and warming. The texture to finish is very silky, almost velvety, with just enough acidity to balance.

Try It With

Hotpot or shabu shabu

When To Drink

Main course or after dinner

Perfect For

Your friend who is convinced they are cooler than you are

Tatler Tip

This one is so delicious but takes a minute to open up and shed some of its initial volatility.

TL/DR

Sauvage, dense and velvety

Supplier

Deco Wines