Francis Boulard & Fille Le Murtet

Tatler Champagne Guide 2024-2025

Grape Makeup:

60% Pinot Noir; 40% Chardonnay

Sweetness Level:

Brut Nature

Ageing on Lees:

~36 months

Price:

$$

Cellar:

Up to five years

Category:

Culinary

What

An estate founded in 2009 by an early adherent of biodynamic principles and now helmed by his daughter Delphine, farming land that has been cultivated by the family for seven generations.

Where

Massif de Saint-Thierry, northern Montagne de Reims; ~3ha, 1.6ha in the Massif de Saint-Thierry, 0.5ha in Mailly (Montagne de Reims, Grand Cru) and 1.2ha in Vallée de la Marne, certified organic and farmed biodynamically.

Why

This single site in the northern part of the Montagne de Reims showcases one of Champagne’s lesser-known terroirs. Boulard’s style is extreme and potentially divisive: grapes are picked at a high level of ripeness here, with vins clairs almost like a still dry wine (12-13% ABV). These are fermented and matured in new oak demi muids, subjected to regular batonnage and full MLF, all making for what one would imagine would be an aggressively heavy profile, but there is a surprising ethereal touch to the aromatics and a clean, polished texture that keeps everything in place.

What Else

The old vine, vintage Blanc de Blancs is more extreme still, giving notes of ghee, olive brine and varnish, with softer acidity and a full, buttery texture that will help it appeal to natural wine stans.

Tasting Notes

This has a forthrightly natural vibe, with a nose like a copper penny with orange rind, bruised apple, straw and varnish. The palate is slightly less twitchy, with more generosity of fruit, its satsuma still cut through with an ethereal lift. The texture is clean and quite polished, providing an interesting sort of balance as it draws to a close.

Try It With

A punchy, spicy charcuterie board with a distinctly Spanish edge

When To Drink

Hot entrées

Perfect For

The friend whose balcony garden is biodynamic

Tatler Tip

This is a wine for a very specific person and occasion; don't squander it on somebody who won't get it. The friend who thinks the only champagnes are Krug, Veuve and Dom Pérignon, for example.

TL/DR

Edgy and natural but with a refined texture

Supplier

Champagne Asia