
A truly unusual, 12-generation viticultural family in the Côte des Blancs that has embraced contemporary approaches like biodynamics and oak vinification while protecting its old vine heritage
100% Chardonnay
Brut
Four+ years
$$
Five to ten years
Culinary
Photos
A truly unusual, 12-generation viticultural family in the Côte des Blancs that has embraced contemporary approaches like biodynamics and oak vinification while protecting its old vine heritage.
Vertus, Côte des Blancs; 11ha in Vertus (Premier Cru) and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Cramant, Oger, Avize and Aÿ (all Grand Cru), divided into 54 parcels, average age 40 years; practising organic and biodynamic farming; 10ha of Chardonnay in Vertus, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger, Avize, Cramant; 1ha of Pinot Noir in Vertus and Aÿ.
This NV blend, though labelled Premier cru (and indeed the bulk of the blend comes from their home turf of Vertus), also comes from some iconic Grand Cru sites in the Côte des Blancs in Avize, Oger, Mesnil-sur-Oger and Cramant, and the vines are an average of 40 years old. The blend of barrel and steel fermentation has created a wine of rounded opulence but also quite rigid structure, with a blunt, hard-edged finish.
Ploughing and treatments here are horse-powered, without any use of heavy machinery.
This starts subtle but quite malty, with an Ovaltine and white rabbit candy softness, hints of dried pear and dried peach fruit, gradually revealing a frangipane white nuttiness. The maltiness is clear on the entry, along with a candied pineapple plush sweetness, though it is well-offset by acidity. The back has quite a forceful block of tannins at its centre and there is a long, pineapple upside down cake finish.
Heavier Hunan or Sichuan dishes with dark meat
Main course or after dinner
Your friend who loves Meursault
So much flavour, this is not a mindless sipper
Malty, tropical-fruited and dense
Fine Wine Experience
