Diebolt-Vallois Fleur de Passion 2013
One of the earliest grower-producers, making beautifully precise, intricate wines in the Côte des Blancs
Grape Makeup:
100% Chardonnay
Sweetness Level:
Brut (actually Extra Brut level: 3g/L)
Ageing on Lees:
9 years
Price:
$$$ (V)
Cellar:
10+ years
Category:
Culinary
Photos
What
One of the earliest in the wave of grower-producers to rise to prominence in the mid-20th century making beautifully precise, intricate wines characteristic of the Côte des Blancs.
Where
Cramant, Côte des Blancs; 14ha in Cramant, Cuis, Chouilly, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Épernay and others.
Why
The Fleur de Passion, the estate’s top, vintage-dated cuvée, is produced in very small volumes (4,000-5,000 bottles) and has a track record of ageing brilliantly since the 1990s. For example, 2006, matured for 16 years on the lees and tasted at the winery, was showing richness and maturity but no tiredness at all. Meanwhile, the 2013 vintage is austere, upright and angular, perfectly demonstrating the area’s strengths.
What else
The Prestige Blanc de Blancs is made exclusively from Grand Crus in the Côte des Blancs and is enriched with reserves from a solera started in 2009 – it combines a beautiful taut citrus assertiveness with the creamy generosity of the reserves. The vintage 2015, meanwhile, came exclusively from Cuis (normally it is a blend of crus), giving it more structure and energy.
Tasting Notes
A little quiet to begin with, this sees very gentle notes of biscuit starting to emerge slowly along with delicately earthy sweet lotus paste. In contrast to the richer 2012 and 2010 vintages, this has a flinty freshness on the nose that is matched by commensurately fresh acidity on the entry. Very angular and nervy on the palate, it seems to evoke white minerals- almost shrill and piercing in tone. However, then the back is flooded with a yeasty sweetness, honey and barley that mellows the overall impact.
Try It With
Mild, earthy grain-driven dishes like soba or vegetarian dishes.
When To Drink
Main course.
Perfect For
Somebody you love (whether they know it yet or not), who will soon love you back.
Tatler Tip
Give this one plenty of time to open up; you could even consider decanting it.
TL/DR
Subtle, flinty, balanced.
Supplier
Champagne Asia
