
An exemplary cooperative in the Côte des Bar and with the region’s largest area under vine
80% Pinot Noir, 20 % Chardonnay
Brut
3 years
$ (V)
Up to 5 years
Celebration
Photos
A house founded in 1846 and eventually sold to the cooperative Union Auboise, with the largest area under vine in the Côte des Bar and a focus on pinot noir.
Bar-sur-Seine, Côte des Bar; the cooperative covers more than 1,400 vineyard hectares but only about 100 are used for Devaux.
The Cuvée Rosé Brut is rich in pinot noir, which is both blended in as a red wine and macerated; it has an assertive smokiness – possibly from the reserve wines partially aged in oak – that makes it a very bold, characterful wine without being excessive.
Before being sold to the Union Auboise, the house was managed by a series of highly capable “Devaux widows,” with the final one, Marguerite Marie-Louise, managing the winery until she passed away in 1951 at the age of 80. Their prestige D Rosé, a paler, more onion-skin toned wine, is extremely delicate and light-footed, an intriguing contrast to the bolder Cuvée Rosé.
A rich, cedary toastiness characterises the opening, which has a sharp ozone note stylistically reminiscent of Dom Pérignon and little obvious fruit. It gives a fresher account of itself on the palate where there is perfumed, pink grapefruit fruit wrapping itself around these flavours, lending it quite a sophisticated tone. Generally very well managed on the palate, it has a lovely seamless shape with acidity well integrated and even the sharp ozone notes are fully enveloped in the flesh. Chalky texture on the finish helps close the sequence.
Fried dishes with crispy elements, like tempura.
Apéritif or snacks.
The friend who loves the style of DP rosé but can't afford to drink it every day.
Serve this one relatively cool to keep the toastiness and ozone sharpness in balance.
Cedary, sharp and unexpectedly sophisticated.
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