Devaux Cuvée D Millésimé

Tatler Champagne Guide 2024-2025

Grape Makeup:

50% Chardonnay; 50% Pinot Noir

Sweetness Level:

Brut

Ageing on Lees:

Seven+ years

Price:

$ (V)

Cellar:

Up to five years

Category:

Celebration

What

A house founded in 1846 and eventually sold to the cooperative Union Auboise, with the largest area under vine in the Côte des Bar and a focus on Pinot Noir.

Where

Bar-sur-Seine, Côte des Bar; the cooperative covers 1,400+ vineyard hectares, but only ~100ha are used for Devaux.

Why

This almost unreasonably affordable vintage cuvée blends roughly equal parts Côte des Blancs Chardonnay with Côte des Bar Pinot Noir from the cooperative’s best vineyards and then matures it on lees for ten years. The glorious 2009 vintage turned out to be a ripe, deliciously cola-like concoction that is unapologetically hedonistic.

What Else

The nonvintage Cuvée D, with 40% reserves and five years on lees, is still gourmand but more classical in shape. The Cuvée Rosée is a pillowy, strawberry jelly gem that punches well above its weight.

Tasting Notes

Cola-like, this has a salubrious tonic note that hits first, its bitter lemon fruit blasted with cassia. The fruit becomes more like apple (red apple even: honeycrisp) while maintaining its gingery spiciness. The palate is broad with a rich mousse shimmering with spicy ginger and cassia notes, clicky phenolics and bright acidity. It is quite top-heavy, becoming crisper and tighter on the back even as the fruit and spice linger, revealing some classic white toast yeastiness. It finishes energetic and attractive, even if it seems almost overly rich at first.

Try It With

A dark, gravy-rich meat dish like beef rendang

When To Drink

After dinner

Perfect For

Your friend who says champagne is too acidic for them

Tatler Tip

This tall bottle doesn't love fridge shelves; don't open unless you're prepared to finish.

TL/DR

Broad and toasty with a crisp back end.

Supplier

Summergate