De Sousa Mycorhize NV

What

Biodynamic, an organic grower with Portuguese and Avizoise heritage, known for its robust, powerful old-vine chardonnay

Where

Avize, Côte des Blancs; just under 10 ha of vines in 42 plots across several Grand Crus, all on chalk soils

Why

This cuvée was created to celebrate mycorrhizae, fungi that grow on the roots of the vines and help dissolve soil minerals. To protect the fungi from soil compaction, this plot is worked biodynamically by horse. The vine age in this Avize plot is some of the estate’s highest at 80+. It is vinified entirely in oak casks and 25 per cent perpetual reserve is added. Only 1,212 bottles were made.

What else

Portuguese Manuel De Sousa chose to settle in Avize after fighting in France in WWI; his son married into the local Bonville family of growers and his grandson Erick is now head of the estate. Try the perpetual cuvée “Cuvée de Caudalies,” which exemplifies the house style.

Tasting Notes

An initial seaweed/iodine note soon becomes fine and toasty, though it retains an ozone edge. The fruit is quite steely at first, the acidity assertive and the texture chalky and angular. Soon a rich mid-palate packed with fruit oozes out, stopping just short of oily and indulgent. Very poised with great persistence.

Try It With 

Salty Southeast Asian snacks: prawn or fish crackers.

When To Drink

Main course

Perfect For

Your sophisticated parent/aunt/uncle.

Tatler Tip

Unusual bottle shape that looks like a bowling pin, totally unlike other De Sousa bottlings.

TL/DR

Super-scarce cuvée: flinty but fleshy.

Supplier

Champagne Asia