Corbon Brut D'autrefois

Tatler Champagne Guide 2024-2025

Grape Makeup:

85% Chardonnay; 15% Pinot Noir

Sweetness Level:

Brut

Ageing on Lees:

9 years

Price:

$$$$

Cellar:

Five to ten years

Category:

Culinary

What

A chardonnay-specialist grower in the Côte des Blancs, founded in 1971, run by fourth-generation Agnès Corbon since 2006.

Where

Avize, Côte des Blancs; 6ha in Avize.

Why

Though Corbon is known above all for vintage-dated Chardonnay from Avize, this nostalgia-infused, carefully crafted cuvée takes another approach, blending vintages and varieties for an altogether different experience. All the fruit comes from the best mature vineyards of the property, including Pinot Noir from Vandières in the eastern Vallée de la Marne, which adds its earthy, grounded undertones. The wine then goes into a 30+ year old solera–every year, half of the wine is drawn out and bottled, then aged nine years on lees. Only around 800 bottles are made.

What Else

This cuvée looks the part, bottled in a low-hipped, stubby bottle with a simple, vintage-looking label and held shut with twine, an old-fashioned technique called ficelage, rather than a cage.

Tasting Notes

This has an earthy, grounded quality, opening with notes of white mushroom, sunflower seed and oats over subtle lemon curd. The palate has a creamy texture, giving a sense of plushness or even sweetness, even though it is extremely dry. Acidity grows increasingly forthright, sitting like a wire mesh outside the density of the midpalate. Its long finish is powered by acidity, teasing out some lemony fruit and a delicate toastiness.

Try It With

An elegant multi-course vegetarian menu

When To Drink

Hot entrées

Perfect For

Your coolest wine friend

Tatler Tip

The string instead of a capsule is charming but a little tricky to open; while keeping a napkin-covered hand near the opening, cut two strings then remove to avoid endangering yourself.

TL/DR

Earthy and plush with dense, lemony fruit.

Supplier

Deco Wines