Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millénaires

Tatler Champagne Guide 2024-2025

Grape Makeup:

100% Chardonnay

Sweetness Level:

Brut

Ageing on Lees:

~Eight years

Price:

$$$$

Cellar:

Ten+ years

Category:

Collectible

What

A comparatively small maison founded in 1851 that is now basking in the glory of its rehabilitated reputation, with exciting new cuvées and a new Chef de Cave, Elise Losfelt.

Where

Reims; 65ha of estate vineyards are shared with Piper-Heidsieck; wine for Blanc de Millénaires comes from Côte des Blancs Grands Crus Avize, Cramant, Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger and Vertus Premier Cru.

Why

The Chardonnay-dominant Blanc de Millénaires shines in the “delicate” champagne vintages, like 2004 and 2007, which are often skipped by other houses (though with the shift in climate, this approach may soon become more popular). 2014 is only the 8th edition in 40 years (the previous vintage was 2007); the cool July and August are crystallised in its icy purity.

What Else

The Brut Millésimé 2013 and Rosé Millésimé 2012 are a triumph of the sexy, gunflint and cedar Heidsieck style. The former is classical with polished apple fruit and toast, the latter gutsier with dried strawberry and bergamot. Also, look out for the previously unreleased BdM 1996, a victim of the challenging Rémy Cointreau era at Heidsieck that Losfelt rediscovered when she arrived at the house.

Tasting Notes

This opens very delicately, almost daintily, with hints of lemon blossom, lemon rind and finger lime, baby powder and toasted sesame. The delicacy remains on the entry, with lemon, shortbread and the faintest white florals. It is so slight it almost seems like there's nothing there, but there is a depth, concentration and precision that is easily overshadowed. Over time, a savoury edge creeps in, like a wheat cracker with anise seeds. Acidity is radiant, the shape stays very light and narrow.

Try It With

Fresh and vibrant Cantonese seafood dishes

When To Drink

Apéritif

Perfect For

Your most in-the-know wine-collecting friends

Tatler Tip

Don't bury this in the middle of a tasting; it's so subtle and understated at the moment it will be overpowered. Ideally drink by itself or only with subtle accompaniments, or else wait a few years.

TL/DR

Delicate, citrussy and precise

Supplier

Kedington Wines (Far East)