Charles Heidsieck Blanc de Millénaires 2006

What

A comparatively small Maison founded in 1851 that has cast off a recently wobbly reputation to become one of Champagne’s most lauded names once more

Where

Reims; 65ha of estate vineyards are shared with Piper-Heidsieck; wine for Blanc de Millénaires comes from Avize, Cramant, Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger and Vertus, 1/5 each.

Why

Blanc de Millénaires, along with the impressively crafted Brut Réserve – which uses 40% reserve wines with an average age of 10 years and used to log 7-8 years on lees – have been instrumental in rebuilding the house’s reputation. BdM is only released in truly exceptional years; 2006 is the 6th since 1983. Extended time on the lees brings an indelible smokiness to its polished chardonnay base, which ages exclusively in steel.

What else

1995 Blanc de Millénaires was made in a volume ten times the house’s original target because then Chef de Cave Daniel Thibault was enamored with the vintage and lasted until the release of the 2004.

Tasting Notes

Open, enticing nose of drawn butter, short pastry and yellow apples with a subtle parmesan rind savour. The palate has more stone fruit and a chalky core beneath its leesy slip that emerges strikingly on the finish. Acid is present but seems more a mouth-filling wash compared to the sharp spine of 2004, finish instead has a refreshing bitterness.

Try It With 

Intense, flavourful seafood like cooked oysters and abalone.

When To Drink

Apéritif.

Perfect For

The friend you hope will start collecting vintage champagne.

Tatler Tip

This is much more friendly than the reserved, withholding 2004 -- drink this while you wait for 2004 to loosen up.

TL/DR

Prestige cuvée that's already enjoyable.

Supplier

Kedington Wines