Charles De Cazanove Brut Millésime

Tatler Champagne Guide 2024-2025

Grape Makeup:

56% Chardonnay, 44% Pinot Noir

Sweetness Level:

Brut

Ageing on Lees:

Seven years

Price:

$ (V)

Cellar:

Five to ten years

Category:

Culinary

What

A producer with over 200 years of history, founded by a family of master glassmakers that took on the name Cazanove after travelling to Venice to hone their craft, now owned by the Rapeneau family, which also owns GH Martel and Vieille France.

Where

Reims; 35ha of estate vineyards and 265ha of long-term leased vineyards.

Why

This Chardonnay-dominant blend, a screaming bargain for mature vintage champagne, shows a bit more restraint and classicism than Cazanove’s Stradivarius, its potent acidity retained thanks to 2016’s cooler, wet spring.

What Else

Stradivarius, the house’s prestige cuvée, comes in a metallicized version of the apple shaped bottle favoured in the 18th century. The 2009 shows off the full-flavoured excellence of that vintage, with richness but plentiful acidity to keep its toffeed, gourmand richness in check.

Tasting Notes

Baked golden apple on the nose is wrapped in cinnamon, puff pastry and chestnut, while a hint of citrus rind gives it some edge. It stays rich and toasty on the entry but still with plentiful baked apple fruit, giving a distinct sense of sweetness and breadth through the middle. The acidity amplifies too, however, really screeching to the fore on the finish, which is unexpectedly fresh. It finally closes with a malty yeastiness and a satiny smooth texture.

Try It With

An almost offensively pungent washed rind cheese

When To Drink

Main course or cheese course

Perfect For

Your friend who always chooses sweet rather than salty popcorn at the cinema

TL/DR

Rich and appley but impressively balanced

Supplier

Telford