Bruno Paillard Cuvée 72

Tatler Champagne Guide 2024-2025

Grape Makeup:

45% Pinot Noir; 33% Chardonnay; 22% Meunier

Sweetness Level:

Extra Brut

Ageing on Lees:

36 months

Price:

$$ (V)

Cellar:

Five to ten years

Category:

Celebration

What

A relatively young house created in 1981 by Bruno Paillard, the Director, CEO and Chairman of the immense Lanson-BCC

Where

Reims: 25ha estate vineyards in 89 individual plots, which supply around 50% of their grapes. 19 are crus (6 Grand Crus and 5 Premier Crus) in Montagne de Reims, Côte des Blancs, Les Riceys and the Grande Vallée de la Marne (the part of the valley with chalkier soils); 50% Pinot Noir, 37% Chardonnay, 13% Meunier, average age 32 years old.

Why

Paillard’s house is the perfect blend of upstart and insider, with an enviable collection of vineyards started in the mid-90s and a solera that dates to 1985. The latter is the foundation for the impressive Cuvée 72. After ageing for 36 months on lees, it spends another 36 months in the cellars post-disgorgement (hence “72”), showing off the benefits of maturation without the lees.

What Else

Paillard was among the first in the region to print the disgorgement date on the bottle, a once controversial and now quite widespread practice.

Tasting Notes

This has a decidedly sweet aromatic quality, with malt biscuit and frangipane and baked lemon fruit, rounded and gentle if not that ripe. It actually feels sweet on the palate despite the Extra Brut dosage, like a honey lemon tea, though it is perfectly balanced by its acidity, which sails to the fore on the finish. Not hugely yeasty, it nonetheless has a delicious richness and generosity that works very well with the acidity and its lightly oily texture adds to the sense of richness.

Try It With

Fatty pork dishes enriched with spices.

When To Drink

Entrées.

Perfect For

Your friend who mainlines Nestea.

Tatler Tip

This one shows off the benefits of ageing after disgorgement and could probably still go on improving for several years.

TL/DR

Gourmand and honeyed but beautifully balanced.

Supplier

Ponti