Bonnet Ponson Cuvée Perpetuelle Extra Brut

Tatler Champagne Guide 2024-2025

Grape Makeup:

40% Pinot Noir; 30% Chardonnay; 30% Meunier

Sweetness Level:

Extra Brut

Ageing on Lees:

30 months

Price:

$ (V)

Cellar:

Up to five years

Category:

Culinary

What

A fast-rising, certified organic grower founded in 1862 with vines up to 80 years old in the great Premier and Grand Crus of the Montagne de Reims.

Where

Chamery, Montagne de Reims; 10+ha in Chamery, Vrigny, Coulommes la Montagne and Grands Crus Verzenay and Verzy.

Why

Since Cyril Bonnet joined the family domain, he has adopted a lower intervention style (avoiding filtration, adding yeasts, and minimising sulfites and dosage, only 1g/L here). He has also been building up their perpetual reserve, which is 40% of this blend. The fruit for this Premier Cru NV from the western “petite montagne” of the Montagne de Reims is mainly vinified in stainless steel, but a small portion (15%) is fermented in barriques, helping add a little roundness on the back to what is otherwise a very austere, upright shape.

What else

This cuvée, their signature, is no longer spending quite as long on the lees as it used to. Previously, it spent at least 4 years and now spends closer to 30 months, which I believe has helped it retain some more attractive primary fruit on the nose.

Tasting Notes

This is a brothy, umami-rich style, opening with medicinal tones of wet clay, chenpi (mandarin peel) and ginseng that gradually reveal rich satsuma and yuzu fruit below. The palate has bright, electrifying acidity packed into a very upright shape with very little flesh or fruit. It continues austere and stony with the same wet clay earthy character, just hinting at tart fruit, which melds into a malty, jujube jam on the back.

Try It With

A medicinal double-boiled soup or clay pot rice with lots of lap cheong

When To Drink

Hot entrées or main course

Perfect For

Your Japanophile friend

Tatler Tip

Give this time to breathe and show some of its fruit; at the beginning, it will smell of kombucha.

TL/DR

Savoury and medicinal with electric acidity

Supplier

Deco Wines