Bollinger PNVZ16 NV

The house famous for its rich, oxidative style and its pioneering use of long lees ageing is the favourite of 007 (evidently Mr. Bond knows his bubbles)

Tatler Asia
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What

Founded in 1829, the second-largest independent house is still run exclusively by Bollinger family members.

Where

Aÿ, Vallée de la Marne; 178ha of their own vineyards (mainly pinot noir) provide more than half of their fruit needs; many key sites are around Aÿ, but this wine comes principally from Verzenay Grand Cru.


Why

Bollinger is famous for its rich, oxidative, pinot-driven style, but in recent years it has slimmed down and brightened up. PN is a new cuvée (16 is the second release) and represents a new era at Bollnger: its vibrant, structured fruit expresses the warmth and mineral crunch of a specific terroir while 10+ year old reserves bring added depth.


What else

Barrels are so critical to Bollinger’s style that they have Champagne’s last remaining in-house cooper. The Grande Année 2012 is exemplary of the “new Bollinger,” polished and vibrant but still generous. The Special Cuvée NV lives up to its name: reserve wines mature in magnums and comprise 60% or more of the blend.

Tasting Notes

A zephyr of smoke, vinous raspberries and golden cherries, ginger biscuits and marzipan swaddles the nose. Quite a chewy, textural front palate gradually loosens up to reveal a very full, juicy middle packed with fruit that never really firms up again on the finish but keeps expanding, eventually yielding to a dried mushroom savouriness but with no additional phenolics. A subtle through-line of acidity supports the weight.

Try It With 

Nutty, earthy stews and noodle dishes.

When To Drink

After meal.

Perfect For

Your competitive colleague.

TL/DR

Structured, dense and vinous.

Supplier

Jebsen Fine Wines