What
Founded in 1829, the second-largest independent house is still run exclusively by Bollinger family members.
Where
Aÿ, Vallée de la Marne; 178ha of their own vineyards (mainly pinot noir) provide more than half of their fruit needs; many key sites are around Aÿ, but this wine comes principally from Verzenay Grand Cru.
Why
Bollinger is famous for its rich, oxidative, pinot-driven style, but in recent years it has slimmed down and brightened up. PN is a new cuvée (16 is the second release) and represents a new era at Bollnger: its vibrant, structured fruit expresses the warmth and mineral crunch of a specific terroir while 10+ year old reserves bring added depth.
What else
Barrels are so critical to Bollinger’s style that they have Champagne’s last remaining in-house cooper. The Grande Année 2012 is exemplary of the “new Bollinger,” polished and vibrant but still generous. The Special Cuvée NV lives up to its name: reserve wines mature in magnums and comprise 60% or more of the blend.
Tasting Notes
A zephyr of smoke, vinous raspberries and golden cherries, ginger biscuits and marzipan swaddles the nose. Quite a chewy, textural front palate gradually loosens up to reveal a very full, juicy middle packed with fruit that never really firms up again on the finish but keeps expanding, eventually yielding to a dried mushroom savouriness but with no additional phenolics. A subtle through-line of acidity supports the weight.
Try It With
Nutty, earthy stews and noodle dishes.
When To Drink
After meal.
Perfect For
Your competitive colleague.
TL/DR
Structured, dense and vinous.