Bollinger Pinot Noir AYC18

Tatler Champagne Guide 2024-2025

Grape Makeup:

100% Pinot Noir

Sweetness Level:

Brut

Ageing on Lees:

~42 months

Price:

$$$$

Cellar:

Ten+ years

Category:

Collectible

What

Founded in 1829, the second-largest independent house is still run exclusively by Bollinger family members. It is adored for its rich, oxidative style and pioneering use of long lees ageing and late disgorgement (the R.D. cuvée).

Where

Aÿ, Vallée de la Marne; 180ha of their vineyards in Aÿ, Avenay, Tauxières, Louvois and Verzenay (for Pinot, which is predominant), Cuis (for Chardonnay) and Champvoisy (for Meunier), with two special sites, Clos Saint-Jacques and Chaudes Terres, still planted with pre-phylloxera ungrafted vines.

Why

Pinot Noir is the soul of the house, and these parcels from Aÿ, Tauxières and Verzenay are combined here in a style that thoroughly expresses the Bolly identity. 2018 was a warm, healthy, large crop and a very successful Pinot Noir harvest; the pristine quality of the fruit comes through here, though reserves date as far back as 2009 to add extra depth.

What Else

The 2015 Grand Année Rosé is a broad, luxuriant oval and radiates Bollinger's oxidativeness and rich, spicy character with plum jelly fruit. Meanwhile, Vieilles Vignes Françaises, the wine made from Bollinger’s pre-phylloxera parcels, is,  tragically, likely to become even more of a rarity in future as these parcels start to succumb; pricy as it is, it is worth hunting down for a truly unique and irreplaceable champagne experience. Finally, more prosaically, as somebody who has to open hundreds of bottles of champagne, I deeply appreciate the perfect perforation of the capsules on Bollinger bottles, which open pristinely almost every time without creating a hazardously sharp edge.

Tasting Notes

This is rich, savoury juice, with a new leather glaze, mild ozone sharpness and plush dried strawberry and dried chanterelles, with an edge of dried rosemary. It grows even more savoury and dense on the palate, with a strong dried red fruit character, with some quince jam as well. There is an oily, weighty midpalate, with Parmesan rind savouriness. The finish has enough acidity and dryness to balance, but there is a sense of breadth and flesh still. The yeastiness is not the main attraction, you get more sense of the grape and the site than the process. There is a slight metallic clang to finish with cutting bitterness and taut phenolics, warming you up for the next sip.

Try It With

A slow-cooked lamb leg

When To Drink

Main course

Perfect For

Your friend who eats steak at least twice a week

Tatler Tip

These are the best food wines from the Bolly stable, which I otherwise think are better enjoyed on their own.

TL/DR

Rich, savoury and muscular

Supplier

Jebsen