A. Margaine L'Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru NV
The best producer in Villers-Marmery, a village of chardonnay vines in the pinot-dominant Montagne de Reims
Grape Makeup:
100% Chardonnay
Sweetness Level:
Extra Brut
Ageing on Lees:
30+ months
Price:
$$
Cellar:
Up to 5 years
Category:
Culinary
Photos
What
The best producer in Villers-Marmery, a village of chardonnay vines in the pinot-dominant Montagne de Reims; a fourth generation grower and Spécial Club member since the 1970s.
Where
Villers-Marmery, Montagne de Reims; 6.5 hectares of mainly chardonnay vines, unusual for this subregion.
Why
The chardonnay used here is a clone not found elsewhere in the region, producing a wine that is much more savoury and even “pinot-esque” than the typical chardonnays of the Côte des Blancs. Margaine’s very restrained approach, suppressing the malolactic conversion (and hence retaining sharper acidity) means these traits take some time to emerge.
What Else
To get that evolved, toasty character today, try le Caractère M de Margaine, drawn from a solera-liked system and aged 60 months on lees. Or, if you loved the restraint but wanted just a touch more roundness, try the ultra-delicate Brut NV, made with 45% reserve wine (it may be easier to find since Margaine makes more than 10x as much Brut as Extra Brut).
Tasting Notes
Very delicate and almost faint, with lime and lime blossom, plus something a little sherbet-y and oyster shell; extremely saline and pure on the palate, with a lemony sweetness, bright acidity, more toastiness on the finish where the umami autolysis finally sails to the fore.
Try It With
Oysters and their ilk, raw white fish and possibly shrimp.
When To Drink
Apéritif or cold entrées.
Perfect For
The friend who loves martinis very, very, very dry.
Tatler Tip
This one takes ages to uncoil - if you're brave, open it a day before serving and reseal.
TL/DR
Austere, withholding blanc de blancs.
Supplier
Champagne Asia
