Cover Karen Chan goes head-to-head with Osama Chabbi in The Weigh-In this month. Photo: Aqib Anwar (Chabbi)

Cheongsam designer and founder of Hong Kong fashion brand Sparkle Karen Chan goes head-to-head with French Tunisian stylist and fashion commentator Osama Chabbi in this month’s great debate

Is cultural appropriation ever acceptable in fashion?

Karen Chan: YES 

“Cultural appropriation in fashion is a complex and sensitive issue. Culture is created by people—and it is forever evolving as people are exposed to new ideas and practices. Fashion is also like that: it is an expression of culture.

My brand Sparkle has always fused eastern and western aesthetics, and different cultural elements in its designs. I am always mindful of what is acceptable and what is taboo, to ensure that the elements—symbols, colours and styles—I use are appropriate and will not be offensive or disrespectful to anyone.

Everyone loves beautiful things, so whether cultural appropriation is acceptable or not in fashion depends on how you approach it. When you treat culture with respect and sensitivity, and when all is done in good taste, blending different cultural aspects into a pattern can actually make for some very creative fashion designs.”

Read more: Cultural appropriation or appreciation? Why representation matters within the fashion industry

Osama Chabbi: NO

“Culture has been at the service of fashion for many centuries through craftsmanship, textiles, prints and high-quality handwork.

There’s a fine line between appreciating a culture—which usually comes with a dose of respect and integrity—and appropriation itself, which is immoral by default.

I doubt there is a right way to appropriate culture in a sensitive manner. When your culture is appropriated, it is usually at the cost of your power, affluence and relevance. Western high fashion labels and luxury players appropriate cultures that are already at a significant disadvantage when it comes to the global fashion landscape.

We’re having diversity and inclusion conversations left and right. But ironically, the cultures that are appropriated are those we see the least on runways and campaigns. Culture is precious, hence why we talk about heritage, so how do we go about protecting ours?

Lately, luxury houses have been touring the world showcasing cruise collections from the dreamiest locations but often, the brands aren’t tackling culture properly and casting is usually poor. There is always something off. Fashion can explore cultures as vectors of exchange and generosity, but cultural appropriation is a form of power abuse.”

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Tara Sobti
Content Director & Head of VIP, Tatler Hong Kong
Tatler Asia

As Content Director at Tatler Hong Kong, Tara shapes the brand's editorial vision and reports on Asia's most influential figures — from CEOs and business leaders to designers. In her dual role as Head of VIP, she curates star-studded events and builds the relationships and communities that define the brand. Born and raised in the Middle East, she honed her craft in Dubai, crafting communication strategies for luxury brands across the Gulf. Follow her on Instagram @tarasobti.