A Mediterranean dream: Willabelle and Ryan Ong uncover the treasures of Spain

The Gaudí Touch

Another golden string that’s woven into the very fabric of Barcelona is Antoni Gaudí. His visionary designs, marked by organic shapes, vibrant mosaics, a fantastical palette and the Gaudí cross define the city’s architectural landscape. And though we were surrounded by such cultural landmarks, including the Sagrada Familia and Casa Batlló in the distance, we were headed to a quieter spot—Torre Bellesguard. Completed in 1909, this historic residence encapsulates Gaudí’s signature blend of Gothic and modernist styles, and reflects his reverence for Catalonia’s heritage. It wasn’t just the episcopal estate that attracted Gaudí to acquire and rebuild the house, it was its special history: in the 1400s it was a palace built by Martin I el Humano, the last king of Aragon, where he also wed his wife in the presence of Pope Benedict XIII and San Vicente Ferrer. Gaudí kept part of the mediaeval palace ruins, building on and around what is today a house and tower, perimetered by a flourishing garden. Flanking the tower are cypress trees—a king of the flora world with specimens known to be more than 1,000 years old, boasting evergreen leaves, resistant wood and roots that grow deep, making them a historic symbol of eternal life. The signature Gaudí cross is inspired by the cypress cone, with four arms pointing to each cardinal point and a fifth pointing to the sky. The interiors, however, contrast with the dark gothic facade—bright, airy spaces reminiscent more of Moorish architecture, framed by colourful wall tiles and curved arches designed in classic Gaudí fashion.

Flavours for the Soul

Located on the mezzanine floor of Hotel Ohla Barcelona, Restaurant Caelis showcases the culinary mastery of Romain Fornell­—the youngest chef to receive a Michelin star in his home country and the only one with dual Michelin awards in Spain and France. His approach to gastronomy celebrates Mediterranean cuisine with a sharply elegant spirit.

Neoclassicism comes alive through his tasting menus, which started off with a four-tier presentation of single bite delicacies—a crunchy squid and miso snack; tapioca souffle with mushrooms; cured egg yolk and caviar tartlet; and a slice of pâté en croûte, a flavour-packed meat pie. Then came the caviar, perched atop a vichyssoise, a velvety potato and leek cold soup, and served within a palm-sized block of ice.

“Humble flavours and recipes from home are reinterpreted with extreme finesse here”, expresses Willabelle, as we tucked into Restaurant Caelis’ dish of macaroni with lobster and foie gras—which came with a hidden pool of celeriac soup that had been laced with the lobster reduction for maximum umami satisfaction.

More masterfully prepared dishes were presented to our table—each paired with a delectable wine that celebrates Spain’s robust crop—including red prawns from Palamòs with luscious beurre blanc sauce. We were encouraged to crunch on delightfully deep-fried prawn legs and grilled red mullet with bouillabaisse and crunchy nori that was plated like a pastel work
of art.

“I don’t know if I have any room for dessert”, says Willabelle who, for those who do not know, has quite the voracious appetite. But once the intricately plated cherry tree-themed dessert was served, it was almost as if all of us had found a new stomach to slowly indulge in the sherry cask flavoured creation, alongside an assortment of Catalan cheeses and petit fours.

It was already 10pm by the time we were done with that final piece of chocolate, but the Spanish sun had only just set, and that signalled our bodies to go for more.

“How about a night cap to top things off?” asks Ryan, who, besides watches, is honing his affinity for fine wines, spirits and craft cocktails. And where better for a middle-of-the-night aperitif while watching the final moments of a Tuesday sunset? Hotel Ohla Barcelona’s rooftop, of course.

The glass doors opened up onto a terrace with 360-degree views of the city. On one side, we saw the cathedral, a sliver of the sea and mount Tibidabo in the distance; while on the other, the bustling streets of the Ciutat Vella neighbourhood and its equally buzzy rooftops. It was the beginning of summer after all, and everyone was out taking in the breeze. We placed ourselves on the high stools flanking the central glass pool, sipping on signature cocktails—including a tequila-charged frambuesa y pimienta, and Fundador Supremo, a negroni made with brandy sherry cask—as we whiled the rest of the night away.

Buoyant Spirits

The days are splendidly long in the summer—and we made the most of them. We set off early to venture further out of the Barcelona city centre to the Penedes valley, where we visited Codorníu Caves, the oldest producer and creator of cava, Spain’s sparkling wine.

Inside these historic cellars dating back to 1551, are vast, lofty halls and a 30-kilometre labyrinth of underground tunnels where countless bottles rest in perfectly cool, serene darkness. An immersive guided tour—on foot and a little train—reveals the intricacies of cava production from grape to glass and Catalonia’s rich winemaking heritage, before we got to taste a quartet of premium cavas that included their Codorníu Ars Collecta Grand Rosé, a sublime blend of grape varieties including pinot noir, sourced from vineyards located in the Segria area; and Codorníu Blanc de Blancs Reserva, made predominantly with chardonnay, boasting crisp bubbles and a harmony of fruity peach and nectarine with delicate notes of brioche and nuts, providing a prolonged creamy finish.

“The jubilance of cava is refreshing. There is such deep complexity in its subtle blend of flavours, and it’s fascinating how the traditional methods used here integrate the primary fruits so harmoniously with all the other notes,” enthuses Ryan. “Those ultra fine, persistent bubbles make these such a treat to savour.”

We were then swept up to the terrace crowning the Codorníu family’s original house to get a panoramic view of the surrounding vineyards, before tucking into lunch at La Torre de Codorníu, their al fresco restaurant that treated us to simple but exceptional flavours of Spain, highlighting the country’s freshest ingredients and time-honoured recipes.

With our spirits thoroughly buoyed by cava, it was time to shop—and we headed straight to La Roca Village.

Home to over 150 international and local brands, this shopping haven isn’t just a treasure trove of past season collections at great value, but a place where retail therapy comes with wining, dining and beyond. La Roca Village also provides its guests with a cultural journey that celebrates Salvador Dalí’s wife and muse, Gala, through a unique joint exhibition with Gala-Salvador Dalí Foundation that demystifies her enigmatic personality through her personal fashion archive. The exhibit, showcased at her home Púbol Castle, continues at the Village through interpretations by contemporary artists, Carla Fuentes and Jordi Bernadó. 

La Roca Village first welcomed us to The Apartment, a stylish private space where top clients can unwind, preview special collections or consult with a personal shopper. Here, Willabelle indulged in racks of looks from Sandro to Missoni, before the siblings set off for a jaunt across the open-air village.

Girona, the birthplace of creativity

“Did you know that Dalí was born in this region?” asks our trusty tour guide Veronica as we drive out of Barcelona. The iconic artist, who is renowned for his influence on what surrealistic art is today, was born in Figueres, a town in the province of Girona. “Not many people outside Spain know this, but Girona is indeed a cultural hub and the birthplace of a number of globally recognised Spanish icons—from Salvador Dalí to the renowned Roca brothers Joan, Josep and Jordi,” adds Veronica. The Roca brothers first put Girona on the global map with their Michelin-starred El Celler de Can Roca, showcasing their innovative take on Catalan cuisine, which has helped shape Spain’s take on modern gastronomy. Today, the chef-restaurateur trio boast a growing collection of establishments under their care, including Casa Cacao, a multi-concept boutique hotel with a chocolate atelier; and world-famous ice-cream parlour, Rocambolesc, where Willabelle and Ryan made a sweet pit stop at on our scenic walk through Girona city.

Discovering Girona’s mediaeval tapestry on foot, we crossed the Pont de les Peixateries Velles, also known as the Eiffel Bridge designed by Gustave Eiffel that spans across the Onya River, offering picturesque views of Girona’s colourful houses and Gothic facades. It was from this point that the Girona Cathedral came into full view, and we meandered through winding narrow roads to climb its iconic steps before standing in awe of its facade adorned by statues of the nine saints symbolising the church’s spiritual guardians. A fun fact learnt on this quaint gander was that some parts of Girona served as filming locations for the Game of Thrones TV series, prominently featuring its mediaeval core and stately temples of religion including this cathedral and the Sant Pere de Galligants Monastery.

The Roca Effect

Having clocked over 15,000 steps by the late afternoon, it was time for us to discover another Girona treasure—one where we could rest our feet in high style.

A sensory drive across landscapes led us to a grand fortress atop Sant Metges mountain, and through its nondescript glass doors, it was as if we had entered a residence—one that called mansion hideaways by a certain Mr Bond to mind. “Welcome to Hotel Esperit Roca,” greets a man in a suit, as we were ushered to bulbous Roche Bobois sofas in the living room-styled lobby faced by 360-degree glass panels—like we were on top of the world. It felt like we were the only guests in the hotel, having just opened weeks before we got there, and also because the exclusive property only offers 15 rooms.

“This feels straight out of a movie,” Willabelle muses as we take the steps down to our rooms, all of which featured beautiful brutalist interiors that created a surreal spatial experience and engulfed us with lush nature. This elevated oasis of silence and serenity was dreamt up by none other than the Roca brothers, with Hotel Esperit Roca being their newest mega project housed in what was the Sant Julià de Ramis castle. All that space with just 15 rooms conjured up thoughts of what could be hiding behind—or beneath—all that decidedly raw, geometric concrete, and we soon discovered a below-ground universe that would take even the most savvy jetsetter and gourmand’s breath away.

Gastronomy is, obviously, the beating heart of Hotel Esperit Roca. And diners from all over can expect a tastebud-blowing reinterpretation of the Rocas’ iconic dishes, as well as a new culinary concept that collides sweet and savoury, over eight courses at haute cuisine restaurant, Esperit Roca. All in its freshly minted stages, there is also Distillery Esperit Roca, which currently serves as the Roca team’s research and development facility and where El Celler de Can Roca’s liquid cuisine is concocted; a shop to purchase Rocas’ own line of spirits, books and edible treats; and a permanent exhibition space showing CCR. Cuina. Consciència, Recerca, which takes visitors on a visual journey through the 38-year history of Celler de Can Roca and its evolutionary lineage of cuisine.

Then there is the wine cellar, which you would have to see to believe. Filling up a ballroom-sized space under a breathtaking moon-like dome are steel structures housing over 80,000 bottles of wine. Here, the cold temperature is natural, purely from its organic structure, and the haunting acoustics are dreamily punctuated by classical music playing, well, just for the wines.

Mallorca, an unparalleled paradise

A 55-minute flight from Barcelona later, we arrived in the largest of Spain’s Balearic Islands: Mallorca. It was as if buzz terms like “quiet luxury” or “slow living” had been coined with this coastal town on the vision boards. It’s a fine balance of bucolic sumptuousness that’s hard to describe—what with its discreetly swanky hotels and tree-lined designer shopping boulevards, café-bars packed as early as 11am with diners whiling the day away with tapas, churros and wines in hand, and, of course, grand fincas and haciendas that line the streets ever so effortlessly facing azure blue waters. And since the Mediterranean is the biggest stage in the yachting world, megayachts go all around and through Mallorca with a nonchalance unlike any other.

Together with the Ongs, we checked into the GPRO Valparaiso Palace & Spa. This five-star urban retreat has been renowned since 1974, emblematic of the Palma spirit that fuses easy-going luxury with a rich, cultural landscape—appointed with all the creature comforts the modern, luxury traveller could ask for. Willabelle’s Royal Suite was fit for a queen, where she revelled in the spacious bedroom, living areas and an outdoor jacuzzi on a private rooftop terrace big enough for a 30-people party, overlooking the picturesque Palma harbour and Mediterranean sea.

The siblings were spoilt for choice on ways to unwind, after a day of hiking through gorgeous Mallorca. From tucking into mouth-watering Mallorcan cuisine at the hotel restaurant, to floating under the stars in saltwater pools and meandering through over 22,000sqm of lush gardens, it was almost as if we didn’t need to leave the property to savour the Mallorcan way of life. We also retreated to the island’s largest spa, GPRO Valparaiso Palace & Spa’s HSpa, where our senses were soothed in a herbal sauna, heated pool and hammam, before getting thoroughly pampered with muscle tension-melting massages.

Treasures of the Balearic

Palma de Mallorca is a town that beckons to be savoured on foot, and walk, we did. From the Cathedral of Mallorca, a 13th-century Mediterranean gothic marvel restored by Antoni Gaudí; to Viti Vinci, an artisanal perfume house the celebrates the essence of Mallorca; Isabel Guarch L’Atelier, where unique jewellery designs reflect the island’s natural beauty; and Flor de Sal d’Es Trenc, that gave us a taste of the best salt of the Balearic Islands. We also paid a special visit to Cortana, a slow fashion brand from the island where Willabelle got entwined in designer Rosa Esteva’s fluid silhouettes that celebrate premium natural fabrics and the divine feminine spirit.

To see more of Mallorca, however, we then jumped onto a train, a car, and a state-of-the-art power boat.

The Sóller Train starts at the heart of Palma de Mallorca, and transports passengers through time on a wooden 1912 train and unique road-to-railway route. Passing farms, fields and tunnels drilled to save the rugged geography, we got off at a special stop: Jardines de Alfabia. Nestled in Mallorca’s Tramuntana mountains, this exquisite historical garden dates back to the 13th century, showcasing a blend of moorish, renaissance and English landscaping styles; a pergola with a magical lagoon; a water lily-covered lake and wide cobblestone pavements flanked by towering palm trees. The sprawling estate is crowned by the Alfabia family house with Roman-Andalusian roots, and rooms that transport visitors to different eras through preserved architecture, Arab artworks, filled bookshelves, and a coffered ceiling with arabesque inlays built by Almohad craftsmen in 1170.

Cars then swept us further up into the mountains of Mallorca, where we discovered Son Marroig, a historic estate steeped in natural beauty and cultural heritage that’s a popular venue for destination weddings; as well as Son Moragues and Mortitx Vineyards—both of which took our palates on an incredible escapade of Spain’s finest produce. Once owned by Archduke Ludwig Salvator of Austria, Son Moragues, or Sonmo, has evolved into a beacon of organic agriculture with vast olive groves. It is famous for producing high quality extra virgin olive oil using centuries-old methods—extracted from olives grown on centuries-old trees—and we got to savour that golden elixir in its truest form, alongside other Sonmo creations like organic sobrassada, whole green olives, and what both Willabelle and Ryan couldn’t get enough of smearing dollops of on bread—their organic purple onion, tomato and basil jams.

A Sensorial Escapade

More tantalising flavours enthralled our palates at Mortitx Vineyards, which owns 19 hectares of vineyards flourishing with grape variants to produce exquisite red, white, rosé and dessert wines in their cellar and winery facility. Sitting under the shade of trees, we got to taste them all, almost a little too much—but delightfully so, following an insightful walk through the rows of vines.

Our final meal of this Spanish escape was at Ca Na Toneta, the most charming farm-to-table restaurant in the village of Caimari. Its celebrated seasonal menu highlights traditional Mallorcan cuisine and the culinary prowess of the Solivellas sisters, with a dedication to local organic ingredients that altogether, have garnered them a green Michelin star. Simply named “squid, fig and sobrassada” or “flower, apricot, fresh cheese and pollen”, each dish that arrived at the table was a masterpiece of simple, hearty flavours with a masterful contemporary twist.

And finally, after taking in the Mediterranean from land the entire trip, we ventured into the scintillating waters from Port Adriano, a luxurious marina designed by Philippe Starck that’s lined with boutiques and restaurants catering to the discerning seafarer. Pulling out of the superyacht-lined bay, and zooming past grand clifftop residences in our Frauscher 1017GT power boats, it was crystal clear why Mallorca is considered the epitome of Mediterranean luxury and natural beauty.

We then sailed into the shimmering horizon with not just memories of an enchanting Spanish sojourn, but a timeless discovery of culture, gastronomy, style, and a paradise, unparalleled.

NOW READ

Jeremy Jauncey on how social media transformed travel, and his role in the upcoming Tatler Best of Asia event

Introducing Tatler Best, the ultimate celebration of Asia’s finest hotels, restaurants, and bars

Only in Madrid: Must-try dining and fashion hotspots across the Spanish capital city and surrounding region