Cover Rapa Nui National Park was recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995 (Photo: Dinh Hang)
Rapa Nui National Park was recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995 (Photo: Dinh Hang)
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South America—a distant land on the other side of the world—never fails to astonish
Be swept away by the natural wonders of this vast continent, where the author listens to the wild symphony of nature reverberating in his chest or marvels at the masterful creations of ancient civilisations. South America—a land unfamiliar to many outsiders—is also the ideal setting for one to embark on a spectacular adventure.
Join the author as he witnesses the formidable Perito Moreno Glacier standing resolute in the face of Earth’s unpredictable climate change, contemplates the enigmatic Moai statues standing sentinel by the Poike volcano, and walks along the majestic cascades of the "Devil’s Throat," immersed in the proud ecosystem of Iguazú Falls.
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Frozen Wonders at the End of the Earth
A sound shattered the vast sky—sharp and thunderous—the roar of a colossal glacier collapsing into the lake. The water churned with waves, cradling the broken ice as it floated, and then, as suddenly as it had begun, all returned to a solemn stillness. I stood before Perito Moreno, the fourth-largest glacier on the planet, nestled within Argentina’s Los Glaciares National Park.
Los Glaciares National Park, in the Patagonia region, is a name that excites anyone with a passion for mountaineering and trekking through the breathtaking landscapes of South America.
Established in 1937 and designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1981, Los Glaciares earns its name from the hundreds of majestic, frozen giants that cover nearly half of its expanse. The most famous of them all is, of course, Perito Moreno.
In the early winter of southern Argentina, the sun does not rise before nine in the morning. As I made my way towards Perito Moreno, the first hints of dawn began to emerge. Crimson and golden rays of light swirled amidst the dark clouds rising on the horizon, casting a shimmering reflection upon the vast lake below. It was the most glorious sunrise I had ever seen.
Then, around a bend, the glacier revealed itself—chillingly cold, impossibly spectacular. I was rendered speechless by the sheer magnificence of nature before me. It was winter, and beneath the overcast sky, the emerald-green ice glowed with a purity that was almost surreal.
Perito Moreno Glacier spans a total area of 250 km² and is the third-largest reservoir of freshwater on the planet.
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Before me, a giant glacier flowed down from the snow-capped mountains, meeting the deep blue waters of Lake Argentino and forming an ice wall nearly 80 metres high. Yet, even this was dwarfed by the full depth of Perito Moreno, which plunges 700 metres below the surface. Further cementing its status as a natural wonder, the glacier covers a total area of 250 km² and ranks as the third-largest store of freshwater on Earth, following the ice sheets of Antarctica and Greenland.
But what truly astounds me about Perito Moreno is that, despite global warming, this glacier remains as resilient as a “living organism.” While ice at the poles and on towering mountain ranges continues to melt, Perito Moreno defies the trend—it keeps “growing” with each passing day.
One of only three glaciers on the planet that is advancing faster than it is retreating, Perito Moreno moves forward by approximately two metres each day. In just four or five years, the towering ice walls before me will reach the southern edge of the lake.
Standing here, I hear the deep, thunderous cracks of ice branches splintering and preparing to fall. The lake trembles with waves, cradling the broken shards of ice as they drift, before all returns to its original, solemn silence.
Suddenly, I feel infinitesimally small in the presence of this colossal glacier, which has borne witness to 2.6 million years of the planet’s transformations. Layers upon layers of snow, centuries of ice calving and reforming, a constant cycle of renewal—proudly spilling into the emerald-green lake.
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The Island of the Mysterious Giant Moai
I journeyed across the world to Rapa Nui—the indigenous name for Easter Island (Chile)—the only place where one can behold the enigmatic Moai statues with their own eyes. For centuries, this distinctive tradition of sculpture and architecture remained untouched by external influences. The reason is simple: Rapa Nui is the most remote inhabited island on the planet, situated 3,700 kilometres off the coast of mainland Chile, requiring nearly five hours of upwind flight to reach.
The island spans 16,628 hectares, with Rapa Nui National Park covering approximately 40% of this vast expanse. Recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995, the park is a treasure trove of archaeological marvels. My journey through it unfolded like a series of revelations, each site unveiling another layer of the island’s long-lost history. Beyond its breathtaking natural landscapes, the park safeguards the enduring mysteries of the Rapa Nui people—an ancient civilisation that has captivated the world with its ingenuity.
Between the 10th and 16th centuries, temples and colossal Moai statues were erected across the island, creating an otherworldly spectacle. Nearly a thousand Moai stand in silent vigil, each carved with strikingly distinctive features—prominent noses, wide chins, elongated rectangular ears, and, most notably, deep, cavernous eye sockets.
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he island’s enchanting natural beauty, holding the secrets of the Rapa Nui people.
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Ahu Tongariki is the island’s most extraordinary Moai platform, home to fifteen towering statues aligned along a 100-metre-long stone base. But beyond the grandeur of its Moai, Ahu Tongariki is defined by its setting—an awe-inspiring backdrop of the vast Pacific Ocean, the ancient Poike volcano, and dramatic cliffs that plummet into tranquil, hidden coves.
Nearby, on a mountainside overlooking the ocean, lies the legendary “workshop” where it is believed the Rapa Nui people sculpted the majority of the Moai. Once completed, these immense statues were transported across the island to coastal sites, where they now stand in solemn communion with the sea. Some Moai are positioned on stone altars in a squatting stance, while others are partially buried, with only their upper halves emerging from the earth. Observing them closely, one can discern how their arms are carved at varying points along their torsos, yet none of these statues possess legs.
It is no coincidence that the Moai positioned on coastal altars face inland. According to belief, each statue embodies the spirit of a revered tribal leader, endowed with divine powers to watch over, protect, and bless the community.
All Moai were meticulously sculpted from monolithic volcanic rock by the Rapa Nui people, whether standing at a modest 1.5 metres or towering at 10 metres in height. The tallest Moai ever erected on the island was Paro, an awe-inspiring figure weighing 74 tonnes. However, an even more colossal statue—El Gigante, a staggering 136-tonne Moai—was never completed and remains frozen in time on the slopes of Rano Raraku, the very quarry where these enigmatic statues were born.
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Searching for the “Devil’s Throat” in the Majestic Iguazu Falls
Deep in the heart of the Brazil-Argentina border, Iguazu Falls was the most remote destination I ventured to in Brazil. Reaching it required two flights from the country’s eastern coast—a total of five hours—before I finally arrived in the city that serves as the gateway to one of the world’s largest and most breathtaking waterfalls.
But the journey was worth every mile.
Iguazu Falls can be visited from both Argentina and Brazil, as the two nations share this astonishing natural wonder—a vast network of cascading torrents, thundering rapids, and swirling mists. The Brazilian side of Iguazu National Park, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984, offers a particularly sweeping panoramic view of the falls.
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To truly grasp the grandeur of Iguazu, one must experience it firsthand. The falls comprise an astonishing 275 individual waterfalls, each appearing unexpectedly as you navigate the winding trails. With every turn, another cascade emerges—some as high as 82 metres—hidden amidst the emerald expanse of rainforest. Day and night, these torrents pour relentlessly into the river below, their perpetual motion shrouding the landscape in an ethereal mist.
On the Brazilian side, the mighty Iguazu River stretches nearly three kilometres in a dramatic crescent, creating one of the most extraordinary waterfalls on the planet. The raw power of nature is laid bare as the water crashes down, unleashing a mesmerising roar that reverberates into the sky. Veils of mist rise from the riverbed like an ever-changing curtain, nourishing the lush subtropical flora that clings to the cliffs and forests. More than 2,000 plant species thrive in this ecosystem, painting the landscape in a spectrum of verdant hues.
On the Brazilian side, the majestic Iguazu River stretches into a large crescent shape of nearly 3km, creating one of the most magnificent waterfalls on the planet.
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Surprisingly, Iguazu is a sanctuary of biodiversity, safeguarding one of the world’s most endangered ecosystems. Amidst the dense foliage, elusive jaguars prowl, harpy eagles soar, and giant otters navigate the currents.
At the end of the trail on the Brazilian side, I arrived at Iguazu’s most formidable feature—the “Devil’s Throat.” Here, 14 powerful waterfalls converge into a single, ferocious abyss, their deafening roar overpowering all other sounds. As the water plummets with an unrelenting force, I am consumed by a sensation of both exhilaration and awe. The mist rises in thick, swirling clouds, wrapping around me like a phantom embrace.
Drenched to the skin, I press forward, stepping into the waterfall’s silken spray. The cascade is both fierce and delicate—a white ribbon unraveling against a brilliant blue sky. For a fleeting moment, time seems suspended, and I find myself utterly lost in the majesty of this natural wonder.
Article published in the print edition of Tatler Vietnam, October 2024 – Family & Legacy
Credits
Photography: Dinh Hang
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