Resort Hopping in The Maldives

It’s one of the most stunning flights in the world, cruising in a twin-prop seaplane over a myriad of blue-green islands spread out across the vast Indian Ocean. Resembling the eyes of a peacock’s plumage, geologists and scientists alike still do not agree on how the Maldives was formed .

Our plane banks and lands on a soft cushion of waves. The first thing I notice is the rainbow of azure blues and greens, cascading from shore to sky. Then I take in the milky white sand, bleached by the strong sun. It’s a place where the frantic pace of life slows to the gentle lapping of the waves. Yes, this is paradise.

Floating in the North Ari Atoll and shaped like a curved dhoni (a Maldivian boat) is the Constance Halaveli Resort, which opened in 2009. Halaveli, operated by The Constance group, has 86 villas in total; I’m staying in a water villa with a panoramic view over a lagoon. The villa’s design is inspired by traditional fishing boats, and combines chic tropical decor with cutting-edge technology.

There’s a large pool, a fitness centre and tennis courts, and a trio of restaurants to choose from, ranging from a beachside grill to an Asian cuisine specialist.

If the pristine beaches and azure waters aren’t conducive enough to take your mind away from it all, the Valmont Spa surely will, with soothing massages taking place in glass-floored spa rooms as you watch the fish swim past, or on the sun deck overlooking the lagoon.

After two days of isolation at Halaveli, I whip across the waters to the group’s other Maldivian resort, Constance Moofushi, which opened in 2010. It’s in the neighbouring South Ari Atoll, about 40 minutes by speedboat.

Compared to Halaveli, the convivial Moofushi is more of a “barefoot luxury” experience. Here all the paths are sanded, including the indoor areas. My water villa at Moofushi is a bit smaller than at Halaveli, but the decor is younger and more colourful. And the marine life is absolutely exceptional.

I decide to jump right in and see these magical creatures up close. First, I try to get near to the rays but, like most wildlife, they are more scared of me than I of them. Suddenly, I catch a glimpse of something larger moving slowly up ahead. It’s a green turtle, sadly now an endangered species. I dive down to swim alongside him. I follow him around the reef as he checks nooks and crannies, looking for food, before I let him get on with his day. It’s a magical moment.

Departing Moofushi, my next stop is Soneva Fushi on the island of Kunfunadhoo in the Baa Atoll. Founded by Sonu and Eva Shivdasani, Soneva Fushi is the original “castaway” resort, pioneering a back-to-nature high-end luxury experience. Underpinning everything at the resort is the philosophy of “slow life” (Sustainable-Local-Organic-Wellness Learning-Inspiring-Fun-Experiences), which Soneva has taken under its wing to create unforgettable, enlightening experiences while treading lightly on the earth.

Like Moofushi, all the paths and interior areas are sanded, and shoes are discouraged here. I’m also presented with my own bicycle, with my initials inscribed on a wooden plaque on the rear.

As I bike around the island to get a feel for the place, I realise how immense it actually is – one-and-a-half kilometres in length and half a kilometre in width. Trees and shrubbery engulf most of the island; there are 25 rooms and 37 villas and suites tucked discreetly into the lush, jungle vegetation, but you’d never know it by looking in from the outside.

My beachside villa is a spacious Robinson Crusoe-chic affair, furnished with huge beds, mosquito netting, elegant daybeds, seating areas indoors and out, and rustic bathrooms set in individual outdoor huts. There are also two treehouses for the kids, a private pool, and a large sand garden that opens to the white beach and the opalescent lagoon beyond.

My final paradise island stop is the Six Senses Lammu, which opened last year. To get there, I have to take two flights to the southernmost Lammu Atoll via Malé. Whereas the northern atolls are saturated with resorts, Six Senses Lammu is the only resort in this southern atoll, and the sense of isolation is even greater.

Six Senses used to be in the same resort group as Soneva, but was sold off last year. Like Soneva Fushi, Six Senses Lammu was clearly designed with the slow life philosophy in mind. What makes Six Senses Lammu unique is that this is very much a water-oriented resort. Most of the main resort areas are built standing over the water, including six waterside lounges and restaurants, the library, the reception and the dive centre. Whether you’re sipping a cocktail at Chill or enjoying a seared-tuna organic salad at Longitude, you have the most incredible panoramic view, with the sound of the ocean as your soundtrack.

For a well-rounded luxury getaway by the seaside, there still aren’t many better options in the world than a trip to the Maldives. With all this fun, sun and relaxation, it’s nearly impossible to say goodbye.

We also in Greece, land of recent strife, to try out Pelops’ Amanzoe resort. See our review here.