Tatler stayed at the five-star Capella Bangkok, which opened in the middle of the pandemic—and today, guests from around the world in need of an urban sanctuary are checking in

When Capella Bangkok opened in 2020—a time in which the world was still under the tight grips of pandemic restrictions—it became an instant hit with Bangkokians, who were no doubt seeking an escape from reality. Now that life has returned to normal, discerning guests from all corners of the globe are checking into the hotel, drawn to its resort-inspired look and feel—a rarity in bustling Bangkok—as well as five-star service and top-notch experiences in dining, wellness and culture.

Capella Hotels & Resorts, which is founded by Ritz-Carlton co-founder and former COO Horst Schulze, operates properties in Singapore, Hanoi, Shanghai, the Maldives, Tofu Bay in Hainan and Ubud in Bali, and has recently opened in Sydney.

Marking Hong Kong’s reopening to travel, Capella Bangkok invited Tatler Hong Kong to stay.

In case you missed it: A food lover’s guide to Bangkok

First impressions

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Above The façade of the hotel

Capella Bangkok is located on the historic Charoenkrung Road—one of the city’s oldest roads—by the Chao Phraya River, in a location that was once a fish market. 

The riverfront is lined with several luxury hotels that have had a longstanding presence, though Capella Bangkok stands out for an offering that you’d be hard-pressed to find elsewhere in the Thai capital: its riverside villas, plus verandahs and verandah suites on the upper levels, complete with private plunge pools in gardens and terraces respectively, offer a resort-inspired feel in the heart of the city. Of the 101 rooms and villas, there are seven villas with one bedrooms, and a two-bedroom presidential villa. All of them boast panoramic views of the river and cityscapes.

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Above The hotel is located by the Chao Phraya River
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Above The hotel offers a quiet, modern elegance

Indeed, unlike many other luxury hotels in the city, where you’ll find many Thai-inspired features (like hipped roofs and elephant statues), Capella Bangkok’s architecture and design—the work of architectural firm Hamilton International, founded by Norman + Fosters alums Andy Miller and Richard Scott Wilson, and interior design firm Bamo—is one of a modern, quiet elegance. Think a soothing palette of soft neutrals with warm wood, marble floors, mirrored surfaces and crystalline water features. It’s enough to make you forget you’re in one of the buzziest metropolises in Southeast Asia.

Our trip to Capella Bangkok started at the airport, where the hotel’s Mercedes Benz S-Class picked us up. The journey is one of comfort, with snacks, drinks and fresh towels at the ready.

A regular boat service takes guests between the hotel and Sathorn Pier, which is right by Saphan Taksin BTS station.

Private paradise

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Above A riverside villa
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Photo 1 of 6 The verandah
Photo 2 of 6 The verandah
Photo 3 of 6 The verandah
Photo 4 of 6 The verandah
Photo 5 of 6 The verandah
Photo 6 of 6 The verandah

Guests check in in a welcoming space dubbed the Living Room, a tastefully decorated lounge with views of the river and located just by the resort-inspired infinity pool. 

We were upgraded from a riverfront premiere into the stunning verandah: upon entry, the 1,475 sq ft suite’s pièce de résistance—a plunge pool located on the private terrace—comes into view through floor-to-ceiling windows. The terrace also has a daybed and outdoor furnishings—an ideal spot for an intimate dinner. Inside, soft, muted tones dominate. The space has a king-sized bed, lounge area and study, and the bathroom has his-and-her vanities and a freestanding soaking tub.

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Above The living room at the hotel
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Above Inside one of the villas
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Above The presidential villa

An elevated version of all the usual suspects in a five-star hotel of this calibre can be found here: think Capella Bangkok’s signature champagne, bottled exclusively for the hotel by the Vranken Pommery champagne house, as well as a variety of Capella Bangkok-branded goods, like white chocolate in the mini-bar and hand sanitisers and mosquito sprays. Finally, in the bathroom, expect quality brushes and slippers (branded, of course) that you will definitely want to take home with you.

The land of smiles

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Above A Capella Bangkok boat ride
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Above One of the Capella Moments experiences

The attention to detail at Capella Bangkok is astounding. Staff are friendly yet discreet—and always thoughtful. From offering to take away the empty soda can in our hands as we enter the lobby to tidying up the messy charging cables on our bedside tables with a wrapper—these small yet impactful gestures mean that guests can fully unwind—and perhaps even switch their brains off altogether—during their time here. 

Every guest staying at Capella Bangkok enjoys access to a concierge dubbed the Capella Culturist, who is just a WhatsApp message away and offers assistance around the clock. This includes everything from advice on beating Bangkok’s notorious traffic (at rush hour, take the BTS instead of a taxi—but you’d still need to budget extra time, because just about everyone else has the same idea); a 9pm request for insiders’ tips on the best local eatery offering a classic Thai-style Hainan chicken rice; and a 24-hour bubble bath service, where staff will fill up your tub. 

Like all its sister properties, Capella Bangkok places a strong focus on celebrating the heritage and culture behind its location. Capella Curates, a programme that offers a variety of experiences to guests, includes activities that immerse visitors in the culture of Bangkok, headed by a Capella Culturist—think a tour of Charoenkrung Road and lessons with Thai grandmothers, who share their knowledge of disappearing traditions like Thai stage performances and the making of classic desserts.

Wine and dine

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Above Côte by Mauro Colagreco will reopen in June
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Above The Michelin-starred restaurant

Capella Bangkok has five restaurants and bars: the Michelin-starred fine-dining establishment Côte by Mauro Colagreco, which offers a reinterpretation of French and Italian riviera cuisines and with fresh Thai ingredients; Thai restaurant Phra Nakhon; the stylish cocktail bar Stella; and the Tea Lounge in its lobby.

Read more: Why Bangkok is Asia’s most exciting food city right now

Côte, headed by Argentinian chef Mauro Colagreco, was awarded a Michelin star in 2020, the year it opened—and then again in the following year. We were lucky enough to visit Côte the night before it closes for renovations—it will reopen in June.

The menu is always a surprise: dishes are created based on the fresh ingredients of the day, and it’s evident plenty of thought went into the flavour profiles of each dish.

Here, we sat down to a seven-course meal. The pigeon, date, kumquat and cauliflower dish was a standout—the meat is sweet and earthy, with a tender and delicate texture, as well as a subtle, nutty undertone. The lobster, white asparagus and matcha hollandaise, meanwhile, offered a combination of a rich, buttery taste from the crustacean and a nutty flavour from the white asparagus, offset by the strong, earthy, bitter notes of the matcha hollandaise.

Wine pairing is available, and includes top-notch varieties like a 2010 R Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Reserva, a Rioja DOCa of Spain, and 2021 Yann Chave Crozes-Hermitage Blanc of Rhone, France, paired with the above dishes respectively. 

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Photo 1 of 3 Stella
Photo 2 of 3 Phra Nakhon's outdoor terrace
Photo 3 of 3 The Tea Lounge

Phra Nakhon prides itself on serving authentic Thai flavours, but this is far from an empty promise: there is no watering-down of spices used, so expect to dig into some well-seasoned crowd-pleasers like green papaya salad and deep-fried grouper.

The Tea Lounge’s afternoon tea is an elegant affair, with desserts that have Thai-inspired touches, created by the hotel’s award-winning executive pastry chef Sylvain Constans, as well as a large selection of teas, including those sourced in Northern Thailand’s tea-producing regions.

Finally, Stella is a sexy spot to see and be seen, where glamorous crowds work the room, and crooners perform classic R&B tunes. The menu offers classic cocktails and those with a twist, along with extravagant seafood spreads and caviar.

Spa and wellness

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Above Auriga Spa
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Above One of the treatment rooms

As is the case with many offerings inside a five-star hotel of this calibre, a treatment at Auriga Spa is an uber-luxe experience. It begins with a consultation, identifying areas you wish to focus on or avoid, and choice of aromatic massage oils. This is followed by time spent in the vitality pool, sauna, and rain showers, should you so wish.

Our two-hour massage treatment was thorough, starting with a gentle warm-up to help the muscles relax, followed by a series of light pressure and long sweeping strokes that released knots and tensions in areas like the shoulder and temples. The result? Deep relaxation, which is what we all want in a spa treatment.

Final thoughts

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Above The pool at the Capella Bangkok

Bangkok has long been—and continues to be, in the post-pandemic era—a popular spot for Hongkongers. For those after city weekend jaunts and also a resort vacation, Capella Bangkok offers the best of both worlds.

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