Hotel review: Navigating the past and present at Aman Venice

The Aman name precedes itself and sets the stage for whatever expectations one might have of a palatial setting. In the case of Aman Venice, the 16th-century Baroque-style palace holds its own. Upon arrival in a water taxi at its private dock, the grand building looms high yet stoically and devoid of gaudy ostentation. The palazzo blends in with those next to it and across from it. 

However, what meets the eye upon entry lives up to the Aman signature and the rich history of the palazzo itself. A large medieval lantern takes over the entire front office—the position of which is given away only by the concierge desk on the right and another at the far end of the room leading to the lush garden at the back.

A chequered marble floor and frescoed ceiling set the stage for what to expect throughout the property. Flanking this to the right is a grand staircase with trompe l’oeil frescoes and ornate arched windows, leading to the piano nobile or the main floor of the palazzo.

The absence of a traditional front desk gives you the impression that you are not entering a hotel, but rather the entrance foyer of a residence. This might as well be the case as the descendants of the Arrivabene family reside in the premises in a private section on the fifth level. This warm and homely feeling underscores the entire experience at Aman Venice. On the other side, the street entrance to the property, a short stroll from the Rialto Bridge, is even more unassuming as it is discreet. 

Lovingly restored by Jean-Michel Gathy, the hotel boasts the astute attention to detail that sets the luxury brand apart, with no compromise to the Palazzo Papadopoli’s past glory. The old part of the palazzo links to the new section through small bridges on the second and fourth levels—as an ode to Venice itself. This section houses the rooms, an intimate gym, a spa, and lounge areas. 

Original frescoes adorn all the ceilings in the common areas and the rooms and have been restored with great attention to detail. A fresco by the palazzo’s most famous resident, 18th-century artist Giovanni Battista Tiepolo, looms majestically over the games room. Mosaic floors, Murano glass chandeliers, and ornate wallpaper complement these. 

On par with the reverence to the past is that for craftsmanship. This is evident in the Rubelli silk wallpaper in most of the lounge areas and Cuir de Cordoba—leather wallpaper—in the library. Minimalist furniture by B&B Italia offers the perfect balance from the ornamentation.

Italian classics take on a contemporary twist at Restaurant Arva helmed by Executive Chef Dario Ossola. Paying further homage to his love for native Italian cuisine and ingredients is the ‘Cook the Lagoon’ concept, a private cooking class. 

Dining at Aman Venice is an experience in itself, thanks to the majestic rooms. The Blue Dining Room and Yellow Dining Room, an alfresco dining at the Canal Garden and a roof terrace—with spectacular views of the city and its magical canals—will transport you to a different world. Mornings kick off with an a la carte American breakfast, served along with a variety of homemade breads and jams.

The adjoining room The Bar boasts the largest selection of gin in Venice, as a nod to eminent English poet Lord Byron. Perfect for an after-lunch kaffe with views of the garden, early evening cocktails—think a negroni infused with rosemary olive oil, served with a block of ice embossed with the name “Aman”—or an aperitif.

Aman Venice boasts 24 rooms that look out either into the canal or the garden. One of Venice’s rarest private green spaces, the two gardens were converted from two adjoining buildings in the 19th century by the presiding Papadapoli family.

Each room, from the Palazzo Bedroom to the Papadopoli Stanza Canal Grande to the Alcova Tiepolo Suite is unique in its design and ornamentation.  The latter, which is crème de la crème of all the rooms, takes its name from the fresco painted by the Rococo artist himself. Flanking the bed area in the room is a hand-painted Chinese sitting room. 

Aman signatures such as an expansive spa-like bathroom, luxurious bathrobes, wardrobes with intricate trellis patterned doors and lounging spaces characterise the bathrooms of every room in the palatial hotel. As do Bang & Olufsen television and sound systems. 

Many original rooms such as the formal dining room, the library, and the in-house chapel have been left as lounge areas for guests. Discreetly positioned are telephones that you can dial from to order in to be served where you are. 

The complete absence of signs directing you toward the bar, the in-house restaurant Arva, spa and others may seem disquieting at first, but you will be surprised at how fast you get led by muscle memory—like one would at their home. Besides, Aman staff magically appear at the most opportune moments to offer assistance where needed.

Venice is one of the most walkable Italian cities, a veritable gym. Nip into the Aman spa for a luxurious Salsomaggiore Terme treatment, powered by Italy’s thermal waters, to soothe and pamper those tired feet.

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