Cover Award-winning chef Hélène Darroze tells all about eating and drinking well in Paris (Photo: ADN Production)

The decorated French chef, who runs her Michelin-starred Hélène Darroze restaurants in London and in both Paris and Provence, shares with us the best way to visit the City of Light

When Hélène Darroze speaks about Paris, one listens with the same reverence as a sommelier uncorking a rare vintage. This culinary sorceress, whose Michelin-starred restaurants have made grown food critics weep with joy, knows the City of Light like the back of her hand. And with the upcoming Summer Olympics 2024 held in Paris, there’s nothing like this handy guide to spruce up your itinerary before it all goes down.

Whether you’re a seasoned Francophile or a wide-eyed first-timer, prepare to see, eat and drink Paris through the discerning eyes of a woman who knows her coq au vin from her cordon bleu.

Read more: What are the secrets to chef Hélène Darroze’s longevity and legacy in the restaurant industry

The best thing about being in Paris is…
the energy of the city. It is important to be in a place that inspires me. Paris is also where I opened my first restaurant (Restaurant Hélène Darroze) and it will always hold a special place in my heart. I also love that it is very different in every area you visit, as it is a big place made of little villages (or arrondissements): think Saint-Germain des Prés, Montmarte, Buttes Chamont, Le Marais.

The first thing I do when I arrive in Paris is…
stop by Café de Flore in Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Whether you are enjoying hot chocolate outdoors at the terrasse during summer or lounging on the red sofas indoors during winter, an experience in this institution is a must in your lifetime. You plunge straight into the real Parisian atmosphere.

My favourite hotel to stay in Paris is…
L’Hotel on 13 rue des Beaux Arts—the last home of [Irish poet and playwright] Oscar Wilde.

My favourite breakfast spot in Paris is…
Bread & Roses, near Le Jardin du Luxembourg, for its exceptional viennoiserie and warm service.

My favourite new restaurants in Paris are…
Maison by Sota Atsumi, Astrance by Pascal Barbot, and pho restaurant Mắm From Hanoï.

My favourite date night restaurant in Paris is…
Café des Ministères. It is a very typical French bistro owned by one of my former chefs, Jean Sevegnes. His food is the best representation of traditional French cuisine.

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The one dish in Paris I can’t leave without is…
saucisson with good butter and bread, specifically, pâté en croûte at À l’Épi d’Or by Jean-François Piège.

The best bar I’ve been to in Paris is…
Bar des Près Cyril Lignac on 25 rue du Dragon. This cocktail bar, fitted with playful décor and warm subdued lighting, is known for its many classic recipes. I like that the accompanying sharing plates carry a Japanese influence. It is one of my favourite places and I go there often with my daughters.

For a first‐time visitor to Paris, you shouldn’t miss…
Marché des Enfants Rouge. This popular marketplace is stocked with beautiful produce and inspiring food vendors.

Tatler Asia
Above Streets of Montmartre (Photo: Getty Images / Alexander Spatari)

My favourite way to spend a day in Paris is…
wandering around the city with my daughters and stopping by wherever smells delicious. One of my favourite walks is in the Île Saint-Louis, passing by Notre Dame. We stop to have lunch at Ha Noi 1988, our go-to Vietnamese restaurant or just an ice cream at Berthillon. Then, we walk along the Seine River up to Saint-Germain-des-Prés until the Luxembourg Garden. For museums and exhibitions, I love visiting the Musée d’Orsay and Fondation Louis Vuitton. And when I am looking to do some shopping, Le Bon Marché is the ideal place.                                  

Don’t leave Paris without…
visiting Montmartre. It is one of the best vantage points for an overview of Paris.

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