Cover The exteriors of Faena Buenos Aires

Walk through Faena Buenos Aires, where surrealist design, tango and art collide to create a singular Argentine experience

To understand Faena Buenos Aires, one must first abandon the traditional metrics of hospitality. This is not merely a place to sleep; it is, as its founder Alan Faena posits, a “cultural embassy”, a self-contained universe where the lines between hotel, theatre and residence blur into a singular, operatic experience. Located in the waterfront neighbourhood of Puerto Madero, the property does not whisper; it declares its presence with the confidence of a diva taking centre stage.

The arrival experience sets the tone for a stay defined by high drama. Housed within the historic El Porteño building—a formidable grain silo dating back to 1902—the exterior retains its industrial red-brick stoicism. Yet, stepping inside La Catedral, the hotel’s entrance hall, one is immediately transported from the humid air of the Rio de la Plata into a cathedral of gold, velvet and shadow. The transformation of this utilitarian structure into a bastion of contemporary elegance is a testament to the collaboration between Faena and the visionary French industrial designer Philippe Starck.

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Above Faena Buenos Aires’s La Catedral
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Above La Cava houses the grandest collection of wines in all Argentina

The interiors are a masterclass in surrealist luxury. Starck’s design language here is profound and personal, utilising an empire-style aesthetic that clashes brilliantly with modern technology and industrial bones. The property comprises 87 guest rooms and suites, including 17 suites and five signature suites that feel less like hotel accommodation and more like the private quarters of an eccentric art collector. The rooms are sanctuaries of lapacho (Brazilian walnut) wood and marble, often accented with deep crimson velvet and cut glass—a perfect blend of Belle Époque grandeur and contemporary comfort.

However, the true pulse of the hotel is found in its social spaces. Faena Buenos Aires is an epicurean destination, offering six distinct restaurants and lounges that draw the city’s fashionable set as much as international guests. For those seeking local authenticity, El Mercado offers the quintessential Argentinian experience and a delectable menu by the chef and grillmaster Emiliano Yulita. Designed with the rustic charm of an old canteen, it features an adobe oven and outdoor seating where guests indulge in the ritual of an estancia-style asado.

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Above Faena’s stunning pool
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Above Inside one of the suites of Faena Buenos Aires

In stark contrast lies Italpast Bistró Sur, a venue that arguably defines the hotel’s visual identity. Here, white unicorns mounted on the walls preside over a dining room where haute cuisine meets theatrical design. It is a space that demands to be photographed, yet the menu by the chef Pedro Picciau holds its own against the décor. For the oenophile, La Cava provides an intimate setting to explore Argentina’s famous red wines, housing one of the most impressive collections in the city.

As evening descends, the hotel’s energy shifts to The Library Lounge. With its tufted leather sofas and crystal chandeliers, it evokes the intimacy of a private club, where craft cocktails are sipped to the accompaniment of live music. Yet, the undisputed climax of the Faena night is found at El Cabaret. This intimate venue plays host to Rojo Tango, an award-winning production that is widely regarded as one of the most riveting tango experiences in the world. It is a sultry, breathless affair that captures the melancholic romance of Buenos Aires perfectly.

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Above The Porteño Suite is among the accommodations at Faena Buenos Aires

During the day, the focal point is the pool—a destination in its own right. The water is punctuated by an oversized crown fountain, a whimsical regal touch that has become a symbol of the brand. Adjacent to this is the Poolbar, a lively spot for light bites and fresh fruit cocktails under the Argentine sun.

For those seeking restoration after a night of Malbec and tango, the Faena Spa offers a dedicated sanctuary. Blending ancient healing rituals with modern science, the spa features a hammam, sauna and a fitness centre. Notably, the spa has partnered with Biologique Recherche to offer facial and body treatments that are as rigorous as they are relaxing.

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Above The Faena Suite is home to a curated collection of contemporary artwork and artisanal keepsakes
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Above The inviting bathroom of Porteño Suite

The hotel acts as the anchor for the wider Faena District, a concept that expands the brand’s footprint into art and community. Just a short distance away lies the Faena Art Center, housed in a restored 1908 flour mill. This non-profit organisation is a catalyst for experimental site-specific installations, bridging the gap between the popular and the avant-garde.

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Above The Library Lounge of Faena Buenos Aires

Faena Buenos Aires is a rare beauty in the hospitality world: a property that prioritises emotional resonance over standardised luxury. It is a place that feels deeply rooted in its location—capturing the grandeur of Buenos Aires’ Belle Époque—while simultaneously offering an escape from reality. As the brand looks to expand its unique philosophy to new territories, from the Red Sea to São Paulo, the Buenos Aires property remains the original testament to the founder’s vision: a “real world paradise” that elevates the living experience.

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Credits

Images: courtesy of Faena Buenos Aires
Maritess Garcia Reyes
Senior Features Editor, Tatler Philippines
Tatler Asia

Whether on assignment or not, Maritess is always on the lookout for off-the-beaten-path destinations as well as the yummiest finds in the Philippines and abroad. In 2020, she plunged into the black hole of Korean la la land. Follow her escapades at @matetreyes.