Since the 26-year civil war in Sri Lanka ended and reconstruction after the devastating tsunami of 2004, tourism, particularly on the east coast and south where golden hued sand, verdant tea plantations and national parks beckon, has boomed. According to the Sri Lanka Tourist Development Authority, tourist arrivals grew to 165,541 in February 2015 from 141,878 a year earlier. However, most of these arrivals have not really lingered in the capital city of Colombo, using it more as a stopover to other parts where lush, luxury resorts have opened.

In Colombo, many once grand but now derelict buildings still lay in wait for a new lease of life. Having said this, a wave of development is surging through Colombo, with more of these mansions being restored and rebranded into art and recreational spaces or hotels. Once such hotel is Uga Residence located in the heart of town, along a leafy boulevard, where tall banyan trees cast long shadows on quiet courtyards walled from traffic din, and sidewalk cafes gather on its side in a hip, happening cluster called Park Street Mews. Despite its accessible location in the heart of the city and within a stone’s throw to famous sights such as the Buddhist lakeside temple of Gangaramaya, Uga Residence offers a quiet respite from the hustle and bustle of the rather congested, chaotic Colombo city centre.

In Colombo, many once grand but now derelict buildings still lay in wait for a new lease of life

Officially opened in May 2015, Uga Residence was the home of a wealthy, flamboyant Sri Lankan entrepreneur Sheikh Salehboy Moosajee in the 18^th century, who was famous for the lavish parties he threw with his missus, Begum Zarina, a flamboyant artist and socialite. Though the balls where British governors, and local tycoons rubbed shoulders are a thing of the past, the grand historic building, restored with understated yet fine details still conveys an atmosphere of grandeur – the classy Ceylon of yore.

When Uga Escapes, the hospitality subsidiary of the Finco Group, a Sri Lankan conglomerate, took over the property, it was turned into 10 luxury suites of 800 sq ft each and a palatial grand Residence suite of 1,800 sq ft. Warm lighting, ornate furnishings and Belgian rugs inject an air of soft elegance and comfort in all suites. With their gleaming polished wooden floors, fine furniture in Sri Lankan teak, and sumptous soft furnishings in rich royal mossy greens and deep teals in brocade and silk, the suites hark back to the colonial period.

Every suite features a bedroom, living room and en suite bathroom, all with its own high walled private outdoor courtyard where you can enjoy morning birdsong and crisp air (if you are a morning person, like me) while feeling a zephyr gently whispering through the overhanging tree branches. Though classic in style, the Suites also offer all mod cons you'd expect to find in a luxury hotel, like geneva sound systems, safety lockers, and coffee machines. I especially enjoyed the Sri Lankan chutneys which are refilled on a daily basis; a refreshing change to the usual turn down sweets of chocolates (which the hotel also provides). In line with the country’s tea history, Uga Residence also provides four blends along with instructions on how to prepare a robust brew.

With their gleaming polished wooden floors, fine furniture in Sri Lankan teak, and sumptous soft furnishings in rich royal mossy greens and deep teals in brocade and silk, the suites hark back to the colonial period

Other facilities include a swimming pool in a large courtyard fringed by tropical trees, a small gymnasium, and a library. As Sri lankan doesn’t have a spa tradition (it does have a history of ayurvedic medicine given its geographical and cultural proximity to India), the hotel has opted not to have a inhouse spa. If you need a massage, the hotel would arrange for a therapist to visit you in the hotel or make a booking at a nearby spa.

What the hotel has in place of a spa more than makes up for it. It has a restaurant that serves up interesting cuisine that expanded my culinary horizon. Ever tasted ice cream with salted fish? Sweet and umami at the same time, seeni sambol (red onion sambal) ice-cream with dried sprats, tastes better than it sounds. The emphasis at Rare is “international cuisine with Sri Lankan ingredients”, the latter sourced in part from the hotel chain’s organic farms in the east coast and cultural triangle. Seafood is from port cities such as Galle or Negombo in the west coast or Jaffna in the east coast, which is famous for its oysters.

Ever tasted ice cream with salted fish? Sweet and umami at the same time, seeni sambol (red onion sambal) ice-cream with dried sprats, tastes better than it sounds

The variety of indigenous fruits and vegetables that Sri Lanka has far surpasses my imagination; some of these even make their way to the cocktail menu. I had a pre-dinner drink of Veralu, a cocktail of vodka, green apple and lemon juice with local olives. Together these ingredients yield a refreshing drink that is not too sweet and slightly acerbic. On the savoury side of the menu, I had lamb, slow cooked in the French style of sous-vide. The lamb fell apart with a slight prod of my fork while side accompaniments of local favourites like kohila leaves, a smoked sweet potato mash, polos (jackfruit) seeds and a sweet onion jam were the perfect counterpoint to the meat’s rich flavours. While there is a comprehensive wine list (new worlds are hot in Colombo now), what The Residence Bar is gaining a following for in the city are its cocktails. A cigar bar is still in the works.

Service at Iga is polite and attentive, without overkill which I sometimes find in luxury hotels in countries with a fledging hospitality industry. This was my first visit to Sri Lanka and not knowing what to expect, I was pleasantly surprised by the warmth and civilised bearing of the people. This is a country which is just beginning to open up to tourism, amids a crop of new developments set to change the face of the country very quickly; yet the people while bubbling with hope for brighter days to come, have maintained an air of quiet dignity about them. Very much like the grand dame of Uga Residence.

Residence by Uga Escapes, Park St, Colombo, Sri Lanka; +94 11 5 673000; www.ugaescapes.com/residence