Back to Nature at the Amanwana on Moyo Island

I had barely waded out of the turquoise calm and onto the bleach-blonde sands, when my snorkelling flippers were gently lifted off my feet and a refreshing cold towel along with iced water were offered to me. With 111 staff to pander to the needs of our family of four, a stylish fleet of boats and all the water equipment you could possibly imagine at our disposal, we were being pampered by the quintessentially Aman service at Amanwana.

Located 15km off the coast of Sumbawa, east of Bali, Amanwana is the only resort on the Indonesian island of Moyo. A wilderness hideaway in a nature and marine reserve of virgin beauty, it is cosseted by tropical rainforest on one side and unblemished reefs teeming with technicolour aquatic life on the other.

The journey to this island of pristine isolation is as delightful as the destination.

A stopover in Bali was required, where we spent a blissful night at Amanusa, Amanwana’s sister property set on a peaceful hilltop. Waking up to birdsong at dawn set the tone for our tranquil escape and we indulged in a delicious Indonesian breakfast before embarking on a one-hour scenic flight to Sumbawa. From there, our 45-minute transfer to Moyo Island was by swanky speedboat, decked out with daybeds.  The jaunt was punctuated by mesmerising flying fish that skimmed the surface of the iridescent waters before disappearing without a trace into the horizon.

Glamour Camping at its Best
Arrival in Amanwana had the kids break into a series of “Awww”s and “Ahhh”s as they spotted families of deer, wild boar and macaques as we were driven through the jungle in a safari jeep towards our camp.

Our beachfront “tent” was in fact a 58-sqm space evoking the days of colonial splendour. Fashioned by solid wall foundations and a hardwood floor, it was roofed by a soaring ceiling of canvas and was fully air-conditioned. Boasting a king-sized bed, wheat-coloured divans flanked by large windows, a bathroom with twin vanities, a writing desk and Indonesian art work, the luxurious space was set for “glamping” (glamour camping).

A step from our tent was a submerged garden of vibrant coral reefs swarming with tropical fish of such flamboyant colours that we found ourselves repetitively snorkelling and diving during our stay. (The camp has its own Dive Centre offering a variety of PADI certified dive courses in the famed waters) We snorkelled in Turtle alley, and clapped eyes on a sea turtle cautiously staring at us before delving into the deep and becoming all but a speck in the depths of the infinite blue.  We dived next to a 1.5m-long black tip reef shark that nonchalantly glided past us while lionfish swam in slow motion and chromis of dazzling cobalt schooled in unison.

The local staff at the beach club inspired and engaged us in a myriad water sports from sunrise kayaking to sunset paddle boating. Under their excellent tutelage, the kids mastered the art of catching the wind and sailing the hobie cat as well as bottom fishing aboard the outrigger.

Photo: Amanwana

Bottom fishing was a curious sequence of elation at having caught something, followed swiftly by squeals of “it’s too pretty to eat!” and a prompt release back into the ocean. I suspect the intimate encounter of the fish during snorkelling had created in the kids an affinity and augmented respect towards marine life.

A Protected Sanctuary
Amanwana is a protected sanctuary for the indigenous Rusa Deer and the resorts deer-breeding programme has facilitated a steady increase in their numbers.  At dusk, the deer cantered from the forest into the vicinity of the restaurant, where the resort guests rewarded the shy creatures with a meal of apples and leaves. The kids were quickly enamoured with Sky, a resident deer, who had only just lost its right antler.

Beyond the open-air dining pavilion was a turtle nest with a hand-written sign announcing the date of expected hatching to be two days after our scheduled departure. The kids eagerly awaited an early hatching but alas, despite their best efforts of sweet talking from the surface, the turtles would not be coaxed out of their egg shell any earlier.

We never did make it to the spa or explore the spring-fed waterfalls or the surrounding islands, but we did hike to Crocodile Head. It rewarded us with a splendid view of a beautiful sunset over Flores Sea while we simply enjoyed each other’s company.

In the weeks that followed after leaving our home in Amanwana, there were endearing emails back and forth between the kids and the resort manager regarding the status of Sky and his missing antlers (the other had dropped just after we left) and the hatching of the baby turtles. It was evident that during our sojourn we had made a real connection with nature.

For more information, visit www.aman.com/resorts/amanwana

Photos by Kevin and Iroshini Chua