Tiffany & Co takes us to the world of Elsa Peretti on her 50th anniversary

The Blue Box Has Arrived 

In 1974, she embarked on a journey that would forever alter the landscape of the jewellery industry. Her much-anticipated inaugural collection for Tiffany was unveiled, resulting in an immediate sell-out and unprecedented queues around the iconic Fifth Avenue store. With an innovative vision, she elevated sterling silver to the echelons of luxury and reimagined the diamond necklace, making it a versatile piece suitable for everyday wear and any occasion. 

This shift reflected the changing sociocultural climate, with women’s rights and empowerment taking centre stage. Notably, she spearheaded a radical change, liberating women from the traditional reliance on men for jewellery purchases and empowering them to assert their independence by acquiring their pieces. Each creation was artfully crafted to cater to women’s diverse financial abilities, showcasing her acute awareness of the evolving landscape of female empowerment. Her jewellery, characterised by its organic, sensual and talismanic essence, became a potent symbol of female strength and autonomy, with the bone cuff standing as an enduring emblem of resilience and empowerment.

In the Eighties, Peretti developed her home line for Tiffany, making everyday objects sculptural with her imprint of sensual design. From candelabras to cutlery, her designs became conversation pieces. This was evident when we ventured into her home in the village of Sant Marti Vell, a few minutes’ drive from her studio. The village had Romanesque origins and was founded in the 16th century. It had few inhabitants, was very hard to live in, and was largely abandoned. She took over the town and helped out the less than 200 inhabitants. But this is the place that nurtured Peretti’s inspiration and creative energy.

In an interview for Vogue Italia in April 2013, Peretti said,  “Spain represented my first real home. I came straight from New York. There was no electricity, and the place was so deserted that I took a shower in the square with a bucket of water heated on the fireplace. Bats were flying in flocks on empty streets.” By the late Eighties, Peretti decided to make Sant Martí Vell a more permanent home as the AIDS epidemic decimated her circle of friends in New York. “That hex had deeply saddened me,” she said during the same interview. “I needed a drastic change to find a hermitage of peace.”

Crossing the threshold into her home (Peretti had bought 18 houses), I was struck again by the modest and cosy atmosphere of the space. The small garden outside featured a pool and some paintings and sketches on the walls. I was held in awe as we delved further into her labyrinthine-like home. Every room had its unique surprise, but none left me as amazed as the grand living room or Sala Grande. Its wooden staircase, two-storey Lanfranco Bombelli fireplace, works of art by Salvador Dali, Andy Warhol and Giorgio de Chirico and distinctive cone-shaped chairs created an unforgettable setting.

The website of the Nando and Elsa Peretti Foundation states, “The unifying element of the exteriors and interiors is the colour Blau de Montserrat, a traditional pigment derived from chalk, which, depending on the gradation of  lapis lazuli used, creates ever-changing shades of blue that further emphasise the uniqueness of the spaces. As the colour of the sky and water, Blau de Montserrat symbolises serenity, creativity and peace, which an artist and collector like Elsa Peretti was able to create with Sant Martí Vell by following her relentless pursuit of beauty and harmony in all artistic manifestations.” 

Peretti’s creative vision was evident in every corner of her home, which she had acquired and transformed over the years. Each area boasted a distinct design, from her tranquil bedroom to the functional kitchen that led to a white sitting area surrounded by books and serene Zen-like gardens. The last tower in her home was a museum, showcasing her collection of objects d‘art from her travels, eastern antiques and art, and proudly displaying her early days as a designer and model.

She said in a plaque hanging in the village. “For 25 years, I have been rebuilding a part of this small Catalan village. I think it has been worth all the effort. In Sant Martí Vell, I find the strength to continue my work, the peace I need, and the inspiration for my forms. This is the meeting point for friends and collaborators. My 20 years with Tiffany are linked to Sant Martí Vell in an inseparable way that summarises all that I love–people, animals, plants, objects and...strong memories.”

During the stroll from her home to the 16th-century church, the last stop in the tour, I couldn’t help but marvel at her dedication to restoring the historical site. As we approached the church, I noticed her final resting place, nestled inside. She wished to be buried in the town she held dear, where she had poured her heart into restoration projects and cherished countless memories.

A Legacy Like No Other

This month marks Elsa’s 50th anniversary with Tiffany & Co. Her remarkable life and work testify to her influential impact on jewellery and home design. Her innovative designs, such as Diamonds by the Yard, Open Heart, Bean Design, and Bone, are the brand’s best-selling items. Her designs are part of the permanent collections of leading museums worldwide, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the British Museum in London, the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston and the Museum of Fine Arts in Houston.

In nearly half a century since Peretti stepped into Tiffany & Co, she redefined the jewellery concept and reshaped its history. She is undoubtedly one of the most successful jewellery designers of all time. Her legacy endures at Tiffany & Co and in the hearts of those who appreciate exceptional artistry and craftsmanship.

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