Cover Tran Anh Hung (Photo: Tatler Hong Kong / Kiu Ka Yee)

The Vietnamese-born French film director and screenwriter, who won Best Director at Cannes last year, evolves the language of cinema to present the simple beauty of Vietnam

Vietnamese-born French film director and screenwriter Tran Anh Hung likes a good challenge. “Oh, I don’t cook,” he says. That didn’t stop him from adapting Marcel Rouff ’s 1920 novel The Passionate Epicure into a 136-minute film, The Taste of Things (2023), made up largely of cooking scenes. Dishes included some of the most iconic French recipes—and there was no acting when it came to preparing them: Tran insisted that “everything needs to be real in this movie”, meaning the film’s stars Juliette Binoche and Benoît Magimel had to know how to prepare the food and feel confident doing it.

Tran reveres both cooking and filmmaking as artforms. “I’ve always wanted to make a movie about an art. I chose food because everything could be real: from the men and women working their [culinary] craft to the transformation of the meat and vegetables.”

Praised for its poetic visuals, harmonious colour palette and tender portrayal of a burgeoning relationship, Tran’s film was selected as the French entry for Best International Feature Film at this year’s Oscars. He had already been named Best Director at Cannes last year, defeating nominees such as Wes Anderson for Asteroid City (2023) and Hirokazu Koreeda for Monster (2023), both known for their distinctive visual aesthetics.

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Above Tran (right) and the cast and crew of The Taste of Things (Photo: courtesy of Stephanie Branchu)

Tran has a very specific notion of what a “good” film is. “Each art has its own language and specific material. A good piece of art deals with what is specific to this art. In cinema, if you can create an emotion or meaning that only the cinema can, then you are making something great,” he says. “Many films are just illustrations, meaning that the camera is used as a record of the actors’ performance. That is not enough for me because [filmmakers need] to deal more with the language of cinema.”

His cinematic language involves a distinctive style of capturing beauty in the everyday. Films such as The Scent of Green Papaya (1993) and The Vertical Ray of the Sun (2000) feature long shots of Vietnam’s beautiful, still life-like details: the sound of the rain, the vast, lush paddy fields, sisters hovering over a steamed chicken, smoke floating from incense sticks, the sound of water dripping into a wash basin, the shape of a papaya tree. His productions paint an impression of a place and envelop the audience in a mood, so much so that the plot becomes secondary. While he admits that prioritising a feeling over the storyline can make it difficult to appeal to the audience, he believes “what is important to me is the special feeling of it. I don’t like complicated stories, because I don’t want you spending all your time [understanding] the story.”

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Above A scene from The Scent of Green Papaya (Image: Alamy)

He attributes his eye for aesthetics to his mother. Born into a working-class family, he says that “everything around me was quite ugly: the houses and the neighbourhood. The only place that was beautiful was the kitchen. When my mother came back from the market, she brought back vegetables, fruits and flowers. It was quite amazing for a child to see this, and I could have a wonderful meal after. Everything was about pleasure in my mother’s kitchen, and I first learnt about beauty there.”

Tran left his homeland with his family for Laos in 1967, before settling in Paris after the fall of Saigon at the end of the Vietnam War in 1975 aged 12. But despite leaving at such a young age, he says, “My sensibility towards Vietnam was already fully formed when I left.” His connection to his birthplace only increased with age, and he chose to study at École nationale supérieure Louis- Lumière, a school of cinema, photography and sound, so that he could better share that bond he says. “What was important was when I went to school, it gave me the instruments to express [his feelings about Vietnam], to make it richer and more sophisticated.”

His studies exposed him to musicals and westerns, which he describes as genres with an emphasis on the “movement and expressiveness of the body. In westerns, everything is so physical: a character hits the other’s face, who then falls to the mud, and blood comes out of his mouth; it’s very powerful. Then there’s the opposite of it. Musicals express softness, sensuality and how, when a boy meets a girl, his feet start dancing to the music because this love inside him is so strong that it needs to come out of his body.”

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Above A scene from The Taste of Things (Photo: courtesy of Carole Bethuel)

The influence of these genres can be seen in The Taste of Things. In the 38-minute opening scene, renowned gourmet Dodin Bouffant (Magimel), his cook Eugénie (Binoche) and their two young assistants move around the kitchen in a carefully choreographed dance of procedures to prepare the dishes, all captured with very complex camera movements. “It looks really like a ballet. I like long shots; I don’t cut or edit my shots. [In this film,] I like to give the audience the feeling of real time in the scene, and to give the feeling of harmony [between a couple] and a vague feeling of life, because harmony in films is quite rare,” Tran says. “In all my films, there is this feeling of musicality coming from the film. I’m not talking about the music that I use in the movie, but the movie as seen as a piece of music.”

Tran’s filmmaking has been experimental ever since his first release, the 1988 short film La Femme Mariée de Nam Xuong. Even though he has moved among genres over the years—drama, romance, musical, thriller, crime and action—he has often made avant-garde decisions, but they are always based on what’s necessary for his art. “One day, I shot one scene [for a] movie and just moved on to the next scene. The lead actor, who was also a filmmaker, asked me why I didn’t reshoot the same scene from another angle so that I would have different materials to work on in the editing room,” he recalls. Tran says he thought about it for a few minutes, but stood his ground. “If the one shot that I liked was the only way to express this scene, then there was no plan B.”

That moment upended Tran’s understanding of a lot of practices in the mainstream film industry. “A lot of movies today are shot with four or five cameras. By doing so, the directors have materials for the editor,” he says. “But that’s nonsense for me, because then it’s
an entertaining edit for the audience, and the film has no point of view.” Taste, for instance, experiences no shocks or unforeseen circumstances. The ending is a natural conclusion to all that comes before it. “I wanted the story to be very simple, so that people can only enjoy the humanity of the characters and how they behave with each other. This quality of being human is the most important thing for me.”

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Above Tran Anh Hung (Photo: Tatler Hong Kong / Kiu Ka Yee)

This eye for subtle, simple, ordinary details could be seen as a western approach, and starkly different from the average Vietnamese filmmaker. But Tran maintains his vision even in productions about his birth country. “Something that’s mundane to locals can be very interesting to me, and I have to show it,” he says, mentioning bánh giò, a typical Vietnamese breakfast food of sticky rice and meat wrapped in a banana leaf, as an example. “When you finish eating it, the banana leaf is just trash to locals. But for me, the green leaf with white dots of sticky rice looks very beautiful. It’s like an abstract painting. I find a way to film it so that it can be touching to even a Vietnamese audience.”

He has never felt the need to present Vietnamese culture in the “authentic” way. “It’s not a question of authenticity or not. It is [about] your emotions. If you bring your emotions to people, you have to find the right way to do it,” he explains. “I’m not making documentaries about Vietnam. I’m making fiction, and this fiction is more about my feelings about Vietnam and everything I received from it. It’s my duty to express exactly what I see in Vietnam.”

He is even forgiving of Hollywood’s representations of Vietnam. “[American director Francis Ford Coppola’s 1979 war film] Apocalypse Now is a great movie about the Vietnam War; [American director Michael Cimino’s 1978 war-related drama] The Deer Hunter also—but in some scenes in The Deer Hunter, we can see that the director doesn’t know how Vietnamese behave really,” he says. “But it’s not a problem. I can put that aside and appreciate the movie and what it has to say.”

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Above Tran Anh Hung (Photo: Tatler Hong Kong / Kiu Ka Yee)

Like many before him, Tran hopes to make a film about the Vietnam War some day, but he hopes to tell the story from the point of view of Vietnamese soldiers, whom he feels haven’t received much of the spotlight. “There is this very good book written by a Vietnamese soldier who, after the war, recounts how he became like a wild animal after seeing his friends being killed next to him,” he says. But that plan will have to be put on hold: “There is heavy censorship in Vietnam, and this vision of a Vietnamese soldier during the war is not what the authorities would like people to know about.”

In the meantime, the director has set himself up for another challenge. “I would like to make a movie about Buddha because his philosophy is quite complex, and it’s difficult to make it understandable for the audience,” he says. He has been part of a Buddhism study group for six months; after the Oscars this month, he plans to travel the world to meet monks. But more than just a journey to discover more about Buddhism, the trip will be a pilgrimage for Tran to find a new film language: he hopes to return to what he calls a “more primitive filmmaking style to make a movie that has a certain innocence in the picture. I don’t know how to do it just yet.”

Not that “not knowing” has stopped Tran from trying something. “By the way, like how I don’t cook and made Taste, for this new film; I’m not religious at all.”

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