Netflix紀錄片《白人時尚：Abercrombie & Fitch 的興衰》看A&F為什麼消失、爭議

Nexflix推出紀錄片《白人時尚：Abercrombie & Fitch 的興衰》，記錄了A&F的興盛、爭議與衰退原因。而 A&F還在嗎？前CEO麥克傑佛瑞斯（Mike Jefferies)去哪了？台灣還有這個牌子嗎？

延伸閱讀：法律也無法懲治他？Netflix紀錄片《Tinder大騙徒》男主角「假扮富豪」詐騙千萬美金被揭露，卻仍於IG上大肆炫富？！

1. Abercrombie & Fitch 起源與火紅原因

March 29, 2005 / Boulder Colo / Jaime Klomhaus walks with his daughter Storm, 6, in front of Abercrombie & Fitch off of Broadway next to Pearl Street Mall March 29, 2005. (Sammy Dallal / Daily Camera)(Photo by Sammy Dallal/Digital First Media/Boulder Daily Camera via Getty Images)

Above Photo by Justin Sullivan/Getty Images

Photo by Justin Sullivan/Getty Images

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美國品牌Abercrombie & Fitch其實是成立至今130年的品牌，曾販售高級的戶外用品，老羅斯福、海明威等人都愛用，不過後期經營不善，被零售大王Les Wexner的The Limited公司買下，到了1990年代前A&F執行長麥克傑佛瑞斯（Mike Jefferies）掌舵，聰明、大膽的傑佛瑞斯，將A&F打造成出全新的品牌形象，除了結合當年上層人士菁英主義，並以大膽鮮明、性感且帶有性幻想的形象廣告，以「休閒奢華」成功打入美國的青少年的心。

CHICAGO - DECEMBER 8: Abercrombie & Fitch clothing is displayed in one of its stores December 8, 2003 in Chicago, Illinois. A recent report claims that Abercrombie & Fitch discriminates against sales representatives based on their "attractiveness." They have also decided to remove its Christmas catalog, which some claim featured sexually explicit images, from its store shelves. (Photo by Tim Boyle/Getty Images)

Above Photo by Tim Boyle/Getty Images

Photo by Tim Boyle/Getty Images

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Above Abercrombie & Fitch models (Photo by David Pomponio/FilmMagic for Paul Wilmot Communications)

Atmosphere (Photo by Michael Loccisano/FilmMagic for Paul Wilmot Communications) *** Local Caption ***

Above Atmosphere (Photo by Michael Loccisano/FilmMagic for Paul Wilmot Communications)

Abercrombie & Fitch models (Photo by David Pomponio/FilmMagic for Paul Wilmot Communications)

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在當年，穿A&F等於「酷」。雖然A&F衣服以簡單的休閒服飾為主，在廣告中你可見各種性感陽光的腹肌裸男、一群外表「漂亮」且身材姣好的少男少女，在公路旅行、海邊度假...他們嬉笑打鬧，他們穿的正是A&F。

A&F櫥窗設計以吸睛的性感裸男海報為招牌、招牌的古龍水，並嚴格篩選店員外觀長相，幾乎清一色都是漂亮的「人事物」，A&F迅速深受青少男女喜愛，更壟斷了各大生活品牌。他們更招募所有學校的兄弟會、橄欖球隊員都穿上A&F宣傳，如果學校中最「酷」的人都穿了，這將是全校園追追崇的風潮！在數位化宣傳前，A&F非常成功運用了影響力行銷，且有鑒於對公司擴張版圖所表現出的企圖心、積極海外設點，大勝同期的American Eagle、Gap等品牌，讓公司市值一度來到65億美元。

2. Abercrombie & Fitch 的爭議事件

(071210, Boston, Massachusetts)Nuria Du Chene, 17, of Milan, Italy, and Marta Civit, 17, of Barcelona, Spain, show off their shopping bags outside of Abercrombie and Fitch at Faneuil Hall in Boston, MA on Monday, July 12, 2010.Staff Photo by Brooks CanadaySaved in Sunday (Photo by Brooks Canaday/MediaNews Group/Boston Herald via Getty Images)

Above Photo by Brooks Canaday/MediaNews Group/Boston Herald via Getty Images

Photo by Brooks Canaday/MediaNews Group/Boston Herald via Getty Images

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Abercrombie & Fitch 將美定義為「瘦、白、年輕」的文化，是一種樂於排斥人的文化，這種「排他性」讓A&F大為成功，不過，這種「排他性」也讓A&F殞落。

Atmosphere during Abercrombie & Fitch Store Opening on 5th Avenue in New York City at A & F 5th Avenue in New York City, New York, United States. (Photo by Michael Loccisano/FilmMagic for Paul Wilmot Communications)

Above Photo by David Pomponio/FilmMagic for Paul Wilmot Communications

Photo by David Pomponio/FilmMagic for Paul Wilmot Communications

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A&F以爭議性行銷手法創造話題，且並未落實尊重多元化種族，他們規範店員的長相，只要你不是「白美高帥」，基本上很難獲得工作，這引起了一群亞裔、非裔美國人與拉丁民族員工的不滿。

在2004年，A&F被指控歧視少數族群員工，並優先將高階職缺提供給美國白人，A&F否認罪行，並與控訴者和解，支付賠償金4,000萬美元這些升遷遭拒的申請者和受影響的員工。除和解之外，A&F更簽署了合意令，包含承諾要招募少數族群員工、增設「多元化副總裁」職位、提高行銷廣告中少數族群的比率。不過在A&F心中，傑佛瑞斯仍非常驕傲「白人至上」主義，不公平的就業待遇、勞工權益越演越烈。

Bruce Weber during Abercrombie & Fitch Store Opening on 5th Avenue in New York City at A & F 5th Avenue in New York City, New York, United States. (Photo by David Pomponio/FilmMagic for Paul Wilmot Communications)

Above Bruce Weber during Abercrombie & Fitch Store .(Photo by David Pomponio/FilmMagic for Paul Wilmot Communications)

Bruce Weber during Abercrombie & Fitch Store .(Photo by David Pomponio/FilmMagic for Paul Wilmot Communications)

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而時尚圈攝影大師布魯斯韋伯（Bruce Weber）當時是A&F的御用攝影師，他將A&F性感形象詮釋到位，卻也面臨遭對男模性騷擾的指控，不過他從未被定罪。

3. Abercrombie & Fitch 如何走向衰落？

SAN FRANCISCO - MAY 10: People walk by an Abercrombie and Fitch clothing store May 10, 2007 in San Francisco, California. U.S. retailers are reporting slumping same-store sales for the month of April driven by an unseasonably cold month, a declining housing market and skyrocketing gas prices. (Photo by Justin Sullivan/Getty Images)

Above Photo by Justin Sullivan/Getty Images

Photo by Justin Sullivan/Getty Images

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相信我們都有同感，好像從某一天開始，A&F就不見了？一個面臨各種種族歧視、對於審美觀極度不多元的品牌，隨著時間推進，開始變得沒有那麼「酷」。而傑佛瑞斯更曾直言：「我們賣的衣服，是給長得好看的典型美國孩子。」眾消費者開始反A&F、發起拒絕消費運動，從滾雪球般越演越烈，A&F甚至被冠上「全美國最惹人厭的零售商」，2014年12月麥克傑佛瑞斯起辭執行長一職，並且帶走了2700萬美元退休金，從此之後消聲滅跡。