From galleries and bookstores to trendy bars and the best soba in Tokyo, Kyoko Hattori shares her favourite haunts in the city ahead of Tokyo Gendai and the highly-anticipated opening of Pace Gallery
As the second edition of Tokyo Gendai opens this week, collectors, gallerists and tourists are descending upon the Japanese capital to discover its cultural offerings.
Adding to the city's dynamic art scene is American contemporary and modern art gallery, Pace, which will open its eighth global location in Tokyo.
Ahead of its grand opening in September, Pace is showcasing approximately 100 works by renowned late American artist Alexander Calder with Un Effet du Japonais, the first solo exhibition of work by Calder in Tokyo in almost 35 years. The exhibition is co-organised with and located at Azabudai Hills Gallery, a museum in the same complex as Pace, and will run until September 6, 2024. Additionally, the American gallery is showcasing a group presentation of almost 50 works from across its program.
We asked Pace Gallery Tokyo's vice president Kyoko Hattori, who previously served as regional director of Phillips in Japan, about her favourite places to visit in the city—from an artsy bookstore in Daikanyama, to the best shops to scope out craftworks and antiques.
See also: Neighbourhood guide: Where to stay, eat, drink and visit at Toranomon Hills, Tokyo

Above Installation view of Alexander Calder's exhibition at Pace Tokyo (Photo: courtesy Pace Gallery)
What are you looking forward to most at Tokyo Gendai?
I am looking forward to seeing the Tokyo art scene connected to the international art world, and the excitement it will bring. I’m also very happy to see collectors’ reactions to the artists we are bringing to Japan for the first time.
What’s your favourite art space and/or museum to visit in Tokyo?
Kikuchi Kanjitsu Memorial Tomo Museum, Nezu Museum and Mingeikan.
Who, for you, is the most significant Japanese artist, and where would you go to in Tokyo to see their work?
I really cannot pick, I have so many. But the Enoura Observatory designed by Hiroshi Sugimoto, just outside of Tokyo, is a place you have to visit.
What was the last artwork or exhibition you saw in Tokyo that wowed you?
The Calder show at Azabudai Hills Gallery! It is stunning.

Above Kyoko Hattori, Vice President of Pace Tokyo (Photo: courtesy Pace)
What do you think is the most impressive architectural structure or design in Tokyo?
Prada store by Herzog & de Meuron.
What’s the best place to look at traditional Japanese art or look for Japanese antiques?
Tokyo National Museum in Ueno. They have national treasures including Japanese antiquities. But if you want to buy antiques, I would recommend London Gallery, it’s designed by Hiroshi Sugimoto and is beautiful.
Is there a gallery or shop that you think highlights Japanese design and aesthetics particularly well?
Amahare in Shirokane shows crafts that use traditional techniques, but [which] are blended into everyday life.
Is there a library or bookstore you head to in Tokyo when you feel like browsing or picking up a nice book?
Tsutaya. It’s a bookstore in Daikanyama that has many art books.

Above Facade of the Prada store in Tokyo (Photo: Getty Images)
What’s your favourite bar in Tokyo and what’s your go to drink to order there?
Salon in Aoyama—I try a different drink every time. The best thing about it is that you can experience [Japan Contemporary Art Platform co-founder Kazunari Shirai's] beautiful Arte Povera collection at the same time.
What is your go to place for Soba?
It has to be Kouga in Nishiazabu.
What’s your favourite cafe in Tokyo?
Bricolage in Roppongi. Their croissant is the best, and the coffee is great.
What is your all-time favourite restaurant in the city?
The Brown. It’s a neighbourhood restaurant where I bring artists whenever they visit Tokyo, and they always fall in love.
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