Ying Ker Lou Atria

SETTING

This 11-years-old Hakka restaurant chain has survived the test of time by dishing out comfort food at an affordable price. Ying Ker Lou’s strategy of positioning restaurant branches in some of Klang Valley’s most populous malls has also played a big part in its success. Its fuss-free, practical décor and layout makes it a conducive space for large gatherings or family meals.

FOOD

A cold and hot appetiser of drunken chicken Hakka-style and yam abacus are good openers. The drunken chicken is marinated generously with Chinese wine and represents the hot side while the yam abacus – made from yam, tapioca flour and fried with minced pork – is outstanding for its rich flavours and starchy texture.

True Hakka-style cooking is demonstrated with the braised pork belly, served with salted vegetables. A well-braised dish, it has no MSG, with the melt-in-your-mouth texture of the pork unquestionably sinful. Though it takes 30 minutes to prepare a plate of steamed fish head with black bean and soya bean sauce, it’s worth the wait as the fish tastes fresh and is well complemented by a thick serving of the black bean paste. Another dish rich in flavours is the sautéed eggplant with fish sauce, or add a dash of spiciness to proceedings with the Hakka soup with chicken.

For desserts, the mango pudding with milk does not disappoint, although health-conscious diners will do well with a hot dessert like a bowl of sweetened mashed yam with gingko nuts.

DRINKS

Alcoholic drinks are not the forte here although you can be sure a small selection of beer is available should you need a quick fix. Its real offerings lie in its extensive Chinese tea selections, available from mild variants to thick and earthy-tasting brews. A balanced Yunan premium pu-er tea is a good recommendation to wash down the hearty meal.

SERVICE

True to its fuss-free concept, waiters here are knowledgeable on its menu and are prompt in serving and clearing. Brisk efficiency is the preferred style here, although if you engage any of its staff with the right questions about the food, they will respond with warmth and enthusiasm.

PRICE

It was RM300 for a party of three. This was a fair price as we had a variety of dishes: meats, vegetables, soups and even seafood, plus desserts. The restaurant does interesting promotion menus for lunch and its dim sum selections are also popular as well.