Yi has truly set a new standard with its considered approach
to presenting Chinese culinary traditions through a thrillingly inventive new filter. Chefs
 Angelo Wong and Wilson Fam (who worked previously at Howard’s Gourmet and Jade Dragon, respectively) bring new perspectives to dishes, which are presented on a daily changing tasting menu that skirts a rich variety of regional specialties. A highlight is the roasted baby pigeon that is imbued with
 the citrusy aroma of smoked lemongrass (the bird arrives on
a nest of the fibrous root); it’s a faultless rendition of a seemingly simple dish. There’s humour 
here too—we’re enthralled by
the final dish of Chiu chow-style rice noodles served with a side of traditional braised Iberico pork offal, from the crunchy ears to slightly gamey intestines. It’s worth mentioning the sheer beauty of the restaurant, too, where diners are ensconced in looming dragon-inspired structures with geometric golden scales, and eat off beautiful artisanal crockery and drink from gilded Baccarat crystal. Fortunately, the luxury of the space and the premium nature
 of the food are balanced by the warmth of the service.