The Opposites

Lai, the veteran innovator, works one end of the bar with laboratory precision: spherification, smoking guns, theatrical foams, flavours that arrive in clouds and bubbles and unexpected forms. Kwok commands the other side with elegance and restraint: pristine glassware, adventurous combinations, balance so quiet you almost miss the craft behind it. The concept is simple: sixteen cocktails, eight classic templates, each reimagined twice. A Pisco Sour becomes Lai’s Scoop Me Up with pink guava white tea foam and a smoke bubble that releases pineapple; Kwok’s House of Saints reworks the Vieux Carré into something adventurous that still honours the original. The room mirrors the contrast: smoky amber on one side, cool blue on the other.

Tatler Tip

Save room for snacks. Lobster dan dan mac and cheese, curried cod croquettes and “hot wave” fries are all worth trying.