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Marrying Singaporean hawker culture with elegant French techniques, Chef Justin Quek introduces Manila to fusion cuisine of the highest calibre
There is nothing quite like the opulence of sitting around the beautifully decorated lazy susan in Solaire's Red Lantern restaurant. Decorated in bold shades of red, it is situated conveniently across the casino where high-rollers often indulge. Needless to say, they get plenty of clients who are willing to spend just as much on food. This kind of atmosphere bodes well for the occasion's special guest: Singaporean celebrity chef, Justin Quek, a man who is among the first to attest that luxury is strongly linked to quality when it comes to food.
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Trained in France, the birthplace of many a libertine, Quek has come to realise that good food is worth the price. A dish that uses lobster stock made from scratch will always have an edge over the one that uses shrimp stock. "There is a difference," Quek asserts. And if money is no problem, then this chef can guarantee the best of the best. Where he's from—Singapore—many foodies eagerly spend up to SGD400 and more for a gastronomic experience. Many continue to flock to Quek for just that.
Above Smoked Mackerel Parfait w Superior Oscietra Caviar & Drunken Clams in Huangjiu w Ikura Roe (Photo: Solaire)
Smoked Mackerel Parfait w Superior Oscietra Caviar & Drunken Clams in Huangjiu w Ikura Roe (Photo: Solaire)
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In Solaire, where he is now serving up a special menu of afternoon teas, wine dinner pairings, dim sum lunches and more, we began our tasting menu with homemade truffle butter and sourdough bread. It's details like these that truly make a meal special. This was followed by a couple of chef Quek's delightful starters: house-made seaweed crackers, smoked mackerel parfait, and drunken clams. Much of these ingredients come fresh from Philippine shores—which Quek is quick to praise. "A lot can be done," he teased, a nod to the richness of our natural terrain.
It's also in this course that one can see how Quek's innovative mind thinks in terms of fusion. Though some chefs are quick to avert themselves from the term, Quek embraces it, describing his style as a marriage between Singaporean hawker culture and French technique. Born of Chinese descent, Quek attributes his drunken clam dish to a previous trip to Shanghai where he personally tasted a similar recipe. "When I was in the city [Shanghai] eating, I was like, 'wow what a dish'," he said. Though the clams are sourced locally, other ingredients—such as the Oscietra caviar that sits atop the mackerel parfait—are imported from the finest suppliers.
"The French always like to use good products," Quek explained. "We are Asian and we have our street food but street food is very cheap so the quality of the product is not so good, because it [tends to be] cheap. So I use hawker fare or hawker heritage and upgrade all the ingredients, like the French."
Above Braised 10 Heads Abalone, Truffle Xiao Long Bao, and Salted Pork Belly w Truffle Abalone Sauce
Above Charcoal-grilled Wagyu Tenderloin and Wok-fried Lobster in Kampot Black Pepper
Braised 10 Heads Abalone, Truffle Xiao Long Bao, and Salted Pork Belly w Truffle Abalone Sauce
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Two main courses followed–the first being a pan-roasted Japanese suzuki fillet. With delicate skin cooked perfectly to a crisp, the day's fish dish also came with flower clams and a delectable herb fondue. What followed was a triptych of sorts: three delicious bites all covered in truffle abalone sauce, plated on one dish, designed to greet the palate in succession. There was a truffle xiao long bao, a piece of cured salted pork belly, and of course, abalone, considered one of the world's most sought after seafood.
Though all delectable in their own right, Quek later told us that when we return, we absolutely must try his wok-fried Hokkien noodle and prawn noodle soup.
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The penultimate course featured a surf and turf-themed plate of charcoal grilled wagyu tenderloin with wok-fried lobster, served atop a bed of creamy mashed potatoes and then drizzled with Cambodian kampot black pepper sauce. Known as "the world's best pepper", the Cambodian kampot is among the most expensive in the world. It added a sweetness to the proteins that further complemented the starchiness of the potato.
Above Homemade Mignardines, Lemon Tart, Limoncello Sabayon, Crispy Meringue
Above Salted Almond Tuile and Freshly baked Financier
Homemade Mignardines, Lemon Tart, Limoncello Sabayon, Crispy Meringue
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Of course, no meal is complete without dessert. To cap the experience off, Quek served what he calls his signature sweet treat: a deconstructed lemon tart served with limoncello sabayon, and crispy meringue. A delicate plate of French madeleine cake—crispy on the outside but perfectly chewy on the inside—was also served alongside delicious almond tuile. All in all, Quek's mastery is easy to taste. Through a seven-course meal, Quek has revealed his strong culinary foundation, which he attributes to ten years in training.
Above Solaire Culinary Masters Chef Justin Quek - Red Lantern
Solaire Culinary Masters Chef Justin Quek - Red Lantern
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Hard work and passion are what Quek possesses, alongside plenty of creativity. He's had a handful of mentors from all around the world. He's lived in Taiwan, in France, and even aboard a ship as a seaman. And now, this chef travels all over the world embracing culinary adventures. "When you help people, people will teach you," he said of his experience as a young commis in the kitchen. "[In there], the word 'no' doesn't exist. Only 'oui', 'oui, chef'. Then after I finish [all my tasks], they [my mentors] buy me a beer. I do not expect money." Though he may be joking, Quek's skilful hands betray the seriousness of his profession. So what's next for him?
"We might open a cafe in Busan, in South Korea," he revealed. "Even in this country, we are talking. If everything goes well, then by next year I'll be coming to the Philippines every two months or so."
Chef Justin Quek will be preparing a special all-you-can-eat dimsum lunch, an exclusive wine pairing dinner, à la carte and set menu offers, plus afternoon tea at Oasis in Solaire from September 20-25, 2022. Reservations can be made here.
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Images: Solaire
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