The third generation owner of iconic roast goose restaurant Yung Kee shares her fondest Hong Kong memories
As part of a new series celebrating the vibrancy and community within Hong Kong’s dining scene, we spoke to several of the industry’s leading lights about why they love the city’s unique food culture. Here, Yvonne Kam – third-generation owner of Hong Kong roast goose institution Yung Kee, and its contemporary spin-off Yung’s Bistro – explains the laborious processes behind many of Yung Kee’s signature dishes and why roast goose has become so synonymous with Cantonese cuisine.
Tell us about some of your favourite Hong Kong food memories…
Food has always been a part of my life, and there are a few special memories from my childhood which we rarely see nowadays.
The first is deep-fried fermented tofu, aka stinky tofu. This is a street food you either loved or hated because of its unique “stinky” smell. Normally, its pungent smell would lead you to the hawker selling it, even if you were quite far away; those who hated it would re-route, while those who loved it, like myself, would get excited and I’d ask my mom to buy it for me as a snack. Although we can still buy stinky tofu in Hong Kong today, the taste is not as good because making it is a very tedious process and since it’s quite a divisive food, it’s not worth it for the hawkers to make it properly anymore.
The second is dim sum carts – I think choosing dim sum from the mobile carts passing your table must have been every child’s highlight at lunch! I remember how some of the ladies would cook the dim sum straight away for you table-side and for the really popular items, we needed to line up besides the cart and “fight” for our order!