Bo.lan’s Duangporn ‘Bo’ Songvisava and Dylan Jones get candid about the global evolution of Thai cuisine.
There is much to love about Thai cuisine, not least its melange of intense flavours that have charmed both royals and the masses, and that continue to woo an increasingly diverse community of diners across all levels.
The cuisine is defiantly bold; food that has withstood the test of time and yet continues to evolve in the skilled hands of some of today’s best chefs such as Duangporn “Bo” Songvisava and Dylan Jones, the married duo behind Bo.lan in Bangkok, which ranked 19th on the 2017 Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list. The couple met while working at Australian chef David Thompson’s now-defunct Nahm in London, the very first fine dining Thai restaurant in Europe to earn a Michelin star.
Fierce locavores and champions of authenticity, Songvisava and Jones are also curators of this year’s Chang Sensory Trails, a multisensorial celebration of Thai flavours, which made its third stop in Singapore in July this year following a successful turnout in London and San Francisco.
In the course of their travels, the couple has noticed how globalisation has impacted the spread of the cuisine’s popularity, and believes that it has evolved tremendously. “Before we opened Bo.lan in 2009, there were just generic Thai restaurants in five-star hotels, and that was considered high-end dining,” Jones muses. “Today, you have so many highend standalone restaurants in Bangkok that are doing similar things but going in different directions.”
Chefs like Songvisava and Jones, as well as pioneers such as Thompson, who has since reopened Nahm in Bangkok and opened Long Chim in Singapore, Perth, Sydney and Melbourne, are partly responsible for this evolution, as they work hard to research and give old recipes new life. Meanwhile, a new generation of Thai cooks have become equally invested in “putting their own stamp on the cuisine”, says Jones.