Ben Chin travels to Cognac to speak with cellar master Baptiste Loiseau on the making of Rémy Martin’s Louis XIII
The silence is almost reverential as we step into the darkness. The air is redolent with the rich, complex scent of aged cognac, which the French poetically refer to as the angels’ share. As my eyes adjust, rows and rows of ancient tiercon casks are revealed, each holding a precious blend of 1,200 eaux-de-vie, some a century old. We’re visiting the historic estate of Le Grollet in Cognac, France—the birthplace of Louis XIII cognac, created by Paul-Émile Rémy Martin in 1874. Among the vineyards of ugni blanc grapes of Grande Champagne that thrive on the region’s chalky terroir, this vital piece of history remains.
Today, the cognac house’s fifth cellar master, Baptiste Loiseau, carries on the lofty legacy left behind by André Renaud and the generations of cellar masters after him. After all, each bottle of Louis XIII is the sublime culmination of 100 years of ageing and blending. We talk to Loiseau about preserving heritage, job challenges and growing up in Cognac.
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Cognac’s youngest cellar master, Loiseau succeeded his mentor Pierrette Trichet in 2014, ushering in a new era for the brand. How is the house of Rémy Martin engaging a new generation of cognac drinkers? “Louis XIII remains committed to its core principles and values, as well as its style and aromatic complexity,” explains Loiseau. “Honouring craftsmanship and embracing the luxury of time enables Louis XIII to remain the exceptional cognac it is today. This is the essence of our cognac, which allows us to talk to all generations, no matter their age.”
He adds, “To engage with the younger consumers we have had, for example, an interesting campaign: 100 Years: The Movie You Will Never See. Based on the concept of creating a film that will not be released immediately, it is inspired by the time it takes to create Louis XIII.” Starring veteran thespian John Malkovich, 1,000 guests from around the world were given invitations to pass on to their descendants to see the film when it premieres on November 18, 2115.
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