As part of our series celebrating the vibrancy and community within Hong Kong’s dining scene, we spoke to several of the industry’s leading lights about why they love the city’s unique food culture. Here, Kosei Kamatani—founder of matcha soft-serve specialists Via Tokyo and popular noodle chain Ramen Jo—tells us about his unusual pairings for XO sauce and why his last meal in Hong Kong would be at a street food stall.

Tell us about some of your favourite Hong Kong food memories.

I’m a Japanese guy who grew up in Hong Kong and went to a British school here (King George V School), so my childhood here was a mish-mash of cultures. I’d wake up, have a Japanese breakfast of nattō,  go to school, have classes, go to the tuck shop to buy some crisps, then head to the canteen for lunch after more classes—and that’s where I’d get to savour one of my favourite local snacks ever, curry fishballs. Ahh, good old rubbery fishballs, sustenance of the poor little student… I still love them.

Another childhood memory was the uncle who used to sell tofu fa in his little hawker cart outside my old home near Mong Kok. He used to push that rickety old thing up and down Argyle Street yelling “TOFU FAAA!” every morning, and for me that was like the Asian version of hearing the ice-cream truck coming. I’d bolt down there in a jiffy for some of that sweet tofu action.