Jason Atherton: On Pollen and Perfection

Jason Atherton
 

“Sorry, I’m not a card guy,” apologises Jason Atherton as he comes up empty-handed after we've presented our own business card. It’s OK, we assure him, we know who he is. He responds with a laugh – in concession, we imagine – and so begins our chat with the Michelin-star chef who needs no introduction.

We are at Atherton's latest restaurant, Pollen, just two weeks before its opening. Located in the almost otherworldly setting that is the Flower Dome at Gardens by the Bay, Pollen is his second venture in Singapore after tapas bar Esquina, which opened to much fanfare in 2011. Inspired by the Mediterranean culture and cuisine, Pollen is modelled after Atherton’s London Pollen Street Social.

Pollen

From the kitchen helmed by executive chef Colin Clague, expect signature dishes including scallop carpaccio; Rangers Valley rib eye; herb roasted pork belly; and line-caught John Dory. Meanwhile, a dedicated pastry bar will showcase the creations of executive pastry chef Andres Lara.

Atherton tells us more about his vision for Pollen, his cooking philosophy, and why he’s searching for something that doesn’t exist.

Sydney rock oyster
 

Asia Tatler: What is the concept behind Pollen?
Jason Atherton: It was important for me to keep the cuisine light. I want people to be able to return to their workplace after lunch or go home after a late dinner and not feel like they’ve had a very heavy European meal. What makes this restaurant unique is not only the food and the team behind it, but also there’s nowhere in Singapore where you can feel like you’re eating outdoors and yet it’s only 22 degrees Celsius.

AT: Tell us more about your ideas for the décor.
JA: First it had to be based on Pollen Street Social in London, which is a very social space, and that to me is important because I like people to be able to go to my restaurants and do whatever they like. That influenced how we kitted out this restaurant. So if you’re walking around the gardens, you can just come in for dessert and watch the pastry chefs work.

AT: Do you think this is reflective of a change in how people dine out?
JA: Absolutely. People are sick and tired of being told by restaurants what they can and can’t do. You come to us and give us money to do what you want to do, and we tell you what you should do? It’s nonsense. You can come in and just have a cup of coffee. It’s great right? Mostly you can’t go to Michelin-star quality restaurants and just have a cup of coffee. Whereas in London, there’s a lady who’s been coming to us since we opened. She has a cup of tea and two scoops of ice cream, and spends three or four pounds – and that’s OK.

AT: You’ve achieved a considerable amount in the two years since you struck out on your own. What pushed you to make the move?
JA: I got to 38 and realised that if I didn’t do it soon, I wouldn’t have the energy to do it. Every career has a shelf life, and I’m very aware of that. It’ll get to a point where television is not interested in me anymore because there’ll be the next batch of young chefs who are better looking, slimmer, faster, and better at what they do than I am. But at the moment they’re not, so it’s my time. I had a very good job and Gordon [Ramsay] was very good to me. But it got to a point where I felt that I hadn’t really achieved what I want to achieve as a chef. Even though I had a Michelin star, I wanted more. I still want more.

AT: So what is it that you’re seeking?
JA: I’m searching for perfection. It doesn’t exist, but it’s a race you have to chase. When you go to a restaurant, you can sense if the chef’s pushing the food. It’s either comfortable, safe, and on cruise control, or you can feel that chef who takes risks with the cuisine. I’d like to think I’m one of those chefs who takes risks. You might not like it, but I’m trying to push it.

Rangers Valley 300-day rib eye
 

AT: What is your philosophy when it comes to food and cooking?
JA: Food and cooking, for me, is an extension of my generousity as a human being. I don’t do things for money; I do projects because I want it to be the best restaurant it could possibly be. If we can hit a level where everyone says it’s a great restaurant, then great, but then we’ve got to build on that. It’s like Esquina – we’ve had a great success, everyone loves it, but I’m not satisfied. It’s got to get better.

AT: And do you think you’ll ever reach that point where you’re happy with something?
JA: No – I’m never happy. I’m not happy with Pollen Street Social. It’s a six million-pound-a-year business, it’s packed everyday, there’s a waitlist to get in – and I’m not happy with it. It needs to get better. I was at Andre Chiang’s restaurant last night – I’d not been there for nine months, and it was better than the last time I went. That keeps my fire for the restaurant alive. Everytime you go back to a restaurant, if it gets a little bit better, there’s a fire in your life for that restaurant.

AT: What is your favourite ingredient to work with?
JA: Seabass. I love European seabass, and the flavour and the moisture of the meat. It’s very difficult to get a fish that’s so versatile like that, because it works with red wine, it works with bacon, delicate flowers, consomme… it’s just beautiful. It’s very expensive but I love it.

Roasted seabass
 

AT: What is your comfort food?
JA: Mostly bread. It’s something I try not to eat because it’s bad for my waist. It’s a love/hate relationship. But when I need a little comfort, a nice sandwich or a soup with hot bread is fantastic.

AT: Who would you love to cook for?
JA: Lee Westwood. I’m a big golfing fan and I’d like to cook for him. He was born in the same town as me, and I’ve only met him a couple of times. Also, Joel Robuchon’s never been to my restaurant. I’d like to cook for him because he’s a hard man. There’s one place I’ve never eaten, and I really regret it, but I couldn’t afford it because I was too young. It was a restaurant called Jamin, which was Joel Robuchon’s original restaurant when he was still actively cooking. Apparently Gordon worked in that kitchen, a few of my chef friends did, and said it was the toughest kitchen they’ve ever worked in. Everytime I speak to a chef older than me and I ask what their favourite meal is, they say “Jamin”. Jamin was perfection, so I’m gutted that I never got to see it. I’d like to eat there but I’d also like to cook for him and see what he thinks.

AT: How would you like to be remembered as a chef?
JA: I’d like to be remembered as being creative; as being kind, tough but fair, and progressive. And just a good guy. I do a lot of charity work, and I’d like to think that I’ve helped British food, because it’s had a bad reputation for years.

Pollen is at 18 Marina Gardens Drive, #01-09, Tel: 6604 9988

www.pollen.com.sg