Chef Antonio Oviedo brings his heritage to Hong Kong with his new Spanish fine dining restaurant Agora, now open in Tai Kwun
What is your earliest memory of food?
I grew up in Fuenlabrada, which is on the outskirts of Madrid. Near my home, there was an orchard that grew cucumbers, and every day, I had to pass it to go to school. The farmer would cut the cucumber into tiny pieces, season it with salt and give it to me. I also vividly remember sitting on a stool in the kitchen of my family home, peeling garlic for my mother. I always helped my mother cook when my brother and sister were busy doing other things. I don’t remember the dish exactly, but in winter, I was most likely helping make garlic soup, and in summer, it was probably gazpacho. I loved soup as a kid.
How has Hong Kong responded to Spanish restaurants here?
I’ve been in Hong Kong for five years now and I think Hongkongers have responded well to Spanish food. Our food has a lot of surf and turf and, funnily enough, a lot of connection to Chinese food, especially when you look at the Portuguese influence here. Many people have told me that the texture of [Spanish] candeal bread is like mantou bread. With [my other restaurant] 22 Ships, we tried to bring Spain’s multi-regional cuisine to Hong Kong. We were open in the middle of the pandemic, and the best compliment I ever received was from a customer who said, “I was supposed to be holidaying in Spain right now, but at least I can eat here.” What an honour.
In what ways do you hope to change the food scene in Hong Kong?
Humbly speaking, I think we have already changed the scene. When [restaurateur and the CEO of JIA Group] Yenn Wong first asked me to come onboard for 22 Ships, I knew I had to do it. I think there was a lack of real Spanish food here. There were a few places here that were good, but I think we brought a totally different element to Hong Kong.
What makes your partnership with the JIA group so special?
There is a huge amount of trust. Yenn really trusts me, and when someone gives you that confidence it’s very special. I see how she operates with her other teams. She really allows you to develop a [restaurant’s] concept. I’ve been working in this business for 20 years, and I can say that I have never had this kind of complete trust before. I feel so supported and I’m not micromanaged. It’s amazing.
"Every time you make wet risotto and call it a paella, a small cat dies in Spain [laughs]. People need to check their Spanish recipe books."