A Penangite In Casino Capital
While political upheavals and health scares have cast a pall over the Las Vegas of the East, Macao's dining scene was absolutely heaving during Mandy Goh's time there (2014-2018). The illustrious David King, culinary director of The St Regis Macao and Sheraton Grand Macao, entrusted Goh with overseeing the food and beverage costs and operations. Note that the latter is the Marriott Group’s largest hotel worldwide (with a whopping number of 4,001 rooms)—not bad for a young chef from Prai, Penang.
Will she be slipping flavours from her hometown into The St Regis Langkawi's spread? "I’ve tweaked Gaetan Biesuz’s Asam Pedas Risotto—it isn’t a Penang speciality per se, but reminds me of the island’s love of sweet and sour flavours—by adding bacalao fritters," answered Goh. "But my belief is that Penang flavours shine best in a street food setting."
The Gracious Student
"My first ever mentor was Marcel Kofler at the Mandarin Oriental Kuala Lumpur," mused Goh. "A Swiss national who has dedicated a lifetime to working for the Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group."
I still remember that time my mentor caught me in the midst of making a soufflé—using a KitchenAid. What a scolding I got!
"'Do you want to ascend to the top?' he asked. 'Then perfect the basics beforehand instead of using machines or shortcuts. Picture a pyramid structure with a wide base—only then are you guaranteed stability.'"
It was Kofler who trained Goh for the Bocuse D’Or Asia (the first time that all-female team took home the gold) in addition to installing Goh, then in her early 20s, at the Mandarin Oriental Guangzhou in 2014.
"We’ve never lost touch. He’s always been there. Even my whole family has met him, my 'surrogate father'."