In a previous life, Shikigiku was a tempura specialist, but to widen its appeal, it has broadened its menu to offer diners a bit of everything. In addition to its signature tempura, which includes live prawns and other seafood plucked from a tank, then battered and deep-fried before your very eyes, guests can opt to sit at sushi or teppanyaki counters (or regular tables and chairs) and order off the extensive à la carte menu of traditional Japanese dishes. Apart from seafood, beef features prominently, and includes top-grade Japanese and US beef served many ways—including sashimi, sukiyaki, shabu shabu or teppanyaki. Complementing the cuisine is a large selection of sake from a list that includes sommelier recommendations, though some tasting notes would be helpful. The interiors are modern, if a little plain, but don’t be deceived by that fact or its location in a retro hotel arcade; the prices at Shikigiku are premium.

What to order

• Japanese live shrimp tempura is plucked from a tank, battered and deep-fried in front of your very eyes.
• Toro can be swapped out for an extra serve of uni in the 10-piece deluxe assorted sushi plate.
• Stir-fried seafood udon, which includes large chunks of river prawn and scallop, has good smokiness thanks to being cooked on a teppanyaki grill.

Tatler Tip

If not eating at a sushi, tempura or teppanyaki counter, the best seats are the banquettes that run the length of the main dining room.